Introduction

Likely one of the simplest, quickest, and most cost effective foundation types out there, skid foundations consist of pressure-treated dimensional lumber “skids”, (typically 4×4’s, 4×6’s, or 6×6’s) set on and anchored against a compacted gravel base. The building’s floor joists are then placed on top of and perpendicular to the skids, after which the flooring and the rest of the building can be installed/constructed. 

In this article, we will take you through this process, step by step. For the sake of time, let’s say that you’ve already planned out the dimensions, overall design, and location of your shed and that you’ve already cleared the area and marked out where your shed will go. If you haven’t done these things yet, this is your sign to do so now. 

Step One: Prepare Your Base

The overall concept of building a skid foundation is simple, but simplicity also tends to mean that in order to do it right, you must be especially focused on each and every element involved. Arguably the most important element in a shed foundation is the base material that you place your skids on. This step can quite literally make or break your project over time. 

Gravel is the best choice for your base. It drains water well, thus preventing your skids from rotting through or expanding and shifting or twisting your structure. Additionally, compacted gravel provides stability by preventing soil from washing out from underneath the foundation. 

Your gravel base should be at least 4 inches deep and it should be slightly larger in area than your planned shed area (an extra foot of two on every side of the future structure will do). You will need to dig out at least 4 inches of your existing ground cover material from this area, whether grass, dirt, or something else, and replace it with gravel. You will then want to compact the gravel using a tamper or power compactor. Make the gravel area as level as possible. 

If you are unable to do this, however, skids are also versatile in that they can be placed on a variety of bases, such as concrete blocks or dirt, and can be jacked up, if needed, when placed on uneven ground. Where possible, provide a stable base, but don’t let this single step stop you from building your shed. As long as you can provide stability, a level base, and good drainage, you can make a skid foundation work for you. 

Step Two: Place Your Skids

You might only have two skids or you might have more. This will depend on how large your shed is and what type of floor joists you’ll be using. When using 2 in x 6 in floor joists, an 8 ft x 12 ft shed should have two 12 ft skids spaced no more than 6 feet apart on center. Place the skids in the footprint of your future shed parallel to each other. 

Step Three: Level Your Skids

Level the skids lengthwise by adding or removing gravel underneath them while also ensuring that a plank placed perpendicular across the skids is also level widthwise. You can fine-tune this once your floor joists are laid atop the skid foundation. 

Step Four: Install You Floor Joists

This step can sometimes interfere with the leveling of your skids, and sometimes it can really help fine-tune crooked or uneven skids because you can leverage your floor joists in such a way that can elevate the skids in certain areas and push the skids down in other areas. Make sure to check your level throughout your floor joist installation and adjust as needed.

Step Five: Anchor Your Skid Foundation

Both a possible upside and downside of using a skid foundation is that it means your shed is somewhat mobile. You can hook a rope to your skids and drag your shed to another location, or your shed can shift, move, or even turn over without your consent during times of heavy rain and wind. The latter scenario is why anchoring your skids is important. You can purchase anchoring kits for sheds or you can use long stretches of rebar and drive it through a drilled hole in your skid and then into the ground.  

And that’s it! You’re now ready for flooring and walls – we told ya skid foundations were simple and easy, and we certainly meant it.

Ready to get started? Check out our FREE shed plans built with skid foundations.

The post How to Build a Shed Foundation on Skids appeared first on Build Blueprint.

Overview

Adding a window will allow plenty of light into your shed to rummage around, but be careful with the placement so the sunlight doesn’t damage your valuables. The height and width of the window plan below can be adjusted to suit any size of window opening. It is recommended that you plan out the window placement before wall frame is assembled, as it’s more difficult trying to add it in afterwards. This window build fits all shed designs, check out our shed plans!

Window Opening

First, determine the exact size of the window opening you want before starting the wall frame build. Some standard size comes in 18″ x 23″ or 18″ x 27″, you can find these at almost any hardware stores. Next, you’ll want to determine the approximate placement of the window opening on the wall. It is recommended that the top of your window header lines up with the top of the door, for a professional look.

Cut the header and rough sill per your window width, the rule of thumb is to plan the opening 1/4″ larger than the actual window size, this will ensure the window fits into the frame and also leave a bit of room for error.

Construct window opening and secure the wall frame before adding in the actual window. The wall frame elevation below uses all 2 x 4 lumbers, and 2 x 6’s for window header.

The window header length is window width + 3″ if you’re using 2 x 4 for studs. You can use a 1/2″ plywood or any wood material as the filler piece.

Window Flashing

Cut and install exterior siding panels, carefully measure and cut the window opening along the framing.

Apply 6″ window flashing tape along the opening per diagram below, make sure you cover the entire sill, jamb, and header. This will create a waterproofing barrier between the window and framing, preventing any moisture from getting into your shed.

Window Installation

After the flashing is in place, you’re now ready to install the window. Hold the window in place, then insert screws or nails into the hinge openings (these should already been pre-drilled in the product).

Add in window trim, this will help to cover up the flashing giving it a clean finish. You can use 2 x 6’s or 2 x 4″ for the trims, and 3 1/2″ nails to secure in place.

Finished window:

Optional: Sealant Foam

On the interior, you can fill any leftover gap with a sealant foam.

The post Shed Window DIY Plan appeared first on Build Blueprint.

Overview

This is a simple method to construct a sturdy and lightweight double shed door. The door height and width can be easily customized per shed size as needed. See instructions here for single shed door plans. This door build fits all shed designs, check out our Shed Plan Library!

Want to add a single door to your shed? Check out our Single Door Plan.

Material and Cut List

DOOR FRAME
2 – 2 x 4 Lumber: 6′-3 1/2″
6 – 2 x 4 Lumber: 7 1/2″
2 – 2 x 6 Lumber: 6′-3″ (door header)
1 – 2 x 6 Plywood Filler: 6′-3″ (door header)
1 – 2 x 6 Lumber: 6′-7″ (door trim)
2 – 2 x 4 Lumber: 6′-5″ (door trim)

DOOR
4 – 2 x 6 Lumber: 3′
2 – 2 x 6 Lumber: 2′ 5″
4 – 2 x 4 Lumber: 5′ 6″
2 – 4′ x 8′ Plywood Siding Panel T1-11: 6′-5 3/4″ x 3′-0″

HARDWARE
2 – Door Handle or Latch
6 – 3-1/2 in. x 5/8 in. Door Hinge

Step 1 – Door Framing

Start with building the door frame opening as illustrated below. Make sure the edges of the studs and header are perfectly flush, measure and adjust as needed.

Cut two 2 x 4 lumbers to 6′ 3 1/2″ length for jack stud.
Cut two 2 x 4 lumbers to 7′ 7 1/2″ length for king stud.
Cut two 2 x 6 lumbers to 6′ 3″ length for door header, use a 1/2″ plywood as filler in-between.

Then, drill pilot holes and insert 2 1/2″ screws every 10″ to secure everything.

Both 2 x 6 or 2 x 4 lumbers will work for the header, for larger doors I would recommend 2 x 6’s. Cut the 2 x 6 and 1/2″ plywood filler to length, then assemble with 3 1/2″ screws every 8″.

Step 2 – Add Exterior Siding

After the wall frame is set in place, install the T1-11 exterior siding panel with 2 1/2″ nails every 8″. The bottom of the siding should be at least 1″ below the bottom plate, this is to cover the gap between the wall frame and foundation.

Measure and cut out the door opening, use the jack stud framing as the guide. You can use a Sabre saw to cut through T1-11 fairly easily.

Step 3 – Install Casing

Cut a single 2 x 6 lumber to 6′ 7″, and cut two 2 x 4 lumber to 6′ 5 3/4″.

It’s important for the casings to flush with the door opening, so the door opens and closes smoothly. Drill pilot hole and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure in place.

Step 4 – Door Construction

Finally, time to work on the actual doors! First, measure the door opening again to confirm height and width, sometimes this can change slightly from craftsmanship. Cut out both doors to size from a single piece of T1-11 exterior siding panel. Hold them up to make sure they fill the entire door opening without any sizable gaps.

Materials for one door: cut two 2 x 6 lumbers to 3′, cut a single 2 x 6 lumber to 2′ 5″, and cut two 2 x 4 lumbers to 5′ 6″.

Place trims flat onto the siding panel to ensure they are square. Then drill pilot holes and insert 2″ screws to secure in place. Repeat for the second door.

Step 5 – Hanging the Door

With both completed doors in closed position, use a pencil to mark up the metal hinge locations on both the door and the casing. Make sure the hinges are straight, yielding a smoother swing.

Attach the hinges onto the door with screws first. Then lift the door in place at closed position, screw in the hinges onto the casing. Swing the door to test out alignment, adjust as needed. Repeat for the second door.

It is also recommended that you add a door stopper to prevent the doors from swinging into the shed. With the doors in closed position, attach any small piece of wood block (1 x 1) under the header. Make sure it’s tight against the back side of the doors in closed position, this will get the doors to close perfectly.

And that’s it, your double shed door is complete! If you’d like to get fancy, try some of the bracing trim patterns below:

3D View of Double Shed Door Assembly

The post Shed Double Door DIY Plans appeared first on Build Blueprint.

Overview

This is a simple method to construct a sturdy and lightweight single shed door. The door height and width can be easily customized per shed size as needed. See instructions here for double shed door plans. This door build fits all shed designs, check out our Shed plan Library!

Want to add a double door to your shed? Check out our Double Door Plan.

Material and Cut List

DOOR FRAME
2 – 2 x 4 Lumber 8′ (cut to 6′ 5 3/4″)
2 – 2 x 4 Lumber 8′ (cut to 6′ 3 1/2″)
1 – 2 x 6 Lumber 4′ (cut to 3′ 7″)
2 – 2 x 6 Lumber 4′ (cut to 3′ 3″) (used for header)
1 – 2 x 6 Plywood Filler (used for header)

DOOR
2 – 2 x 6 Lumber 3′ (no cut)
1 – 2 x 6 Lumber 3′ (cut to 2′ 5″)
2 – 2 x 4 Lumber 6′ (cut to 5′ 6″)
1 – 4′ x 8′ Plywood Siding Panel T1-11 (cut to 6′ 5 3/4″ x 3′)

HARDWARE
1 – Door Handle or Latch
3 – 3-1/2 in. x 5/8 in. Door Hinge

Step 1 – Door Framing

Start with building the door frame opening as illustrated below. Make sure the edges of the studs and header are perfectly flush, measure and adjust as needed.

Cut two 2 x 4 lumbers to 6′ 3 1/2″ length for jack stud.
Cut two 2 x 4 lumbers to 7′ 7 1/2″ length for king stud.
Cut two 2 x 6 lumbers to 3′ 3″ length for door header, use a 1/2″ plywood as filler in-between.

Then, drill pilot holes and insert 2 1/2″ screws every 10″ to secure everything.

Both 2 x 6 or 2 x 4 lumbers will work for the header, for larger doors I would recommend 2 x 6’s. Cut the 2 x 6 and 1/2″ plywood filler to length, then assemble with 3 1/2″ screws every 8″.

Step 2 – Add Exterior Siding

After the wall frame is set in place, install the T1-11 exterior siding panel with 2 1/2″ nails every 8″. The bottom of the siding should be at least 1″ below the bottom plate, this is to cover the gap between the wall frame and foundation.

Measure and cut out the door opening, use the jack stud framing as the guide. You can use a Sabre saw to cut through T1-11 fairly easily.

Step 3 – Install Casing

Cut a single 2 x 6 lumber to 3′ 7″, and cut two 2 x 4 lumber to 6′ 5 3/4″.

It’s important for the casings to flush with the door opening, so the door opens and closes smoothly. Drill pilot hole and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure in place.

Step 4 – Door Construction

Finally, time to work on the actual door! First, measure the door opening again to confirm height and width, sometimes this can change slightly from craftsmanship. Cut out to size from a single piece of T1-11 exterior siding panel.

Cut two 2 x 6 lumbers to 3′, cut a single 2 x 6 lumber to 2′ 5″, and cut two 2 x 4 lumbers to 5′ 6″.

Place trims flat onto the siding panel to ensure they are square. Then drill pilot holes and insert 2″ screws to secure in place.

Step 5 – Hanging the Door

With the door in closed position, use a pencil to mark up the three hinge locations on both the door and the casing. Make sure the hinges are straight.

Attach the hinges onto the door with screws first. Then lift the door in place at closed position, screw in the hinges onto the casing. Swing the door to test out alignment, adjust as needed.

It is also recommended that you add a door stopper to prevent the door from swinging into the shed. With the door in closed position, attach any small piece of wood block under the header. Make sure it’s tight against the back side of the door.

And that’s it, your shed door is complete! If you’d like to get fancy, try some of the bracing trim patterns below:

3D View of Single Shed Door Assembly

The post Shed Single Door DIY Plans appeared first on Build Blueprint.