Get the complete 12×16 Shed Plans – PDF Instant Download:

PDF includes the cut list, additional diagrams and dimensions, complete step-by-step DIY instructions.

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12×16 Shed DIY Plans | Free Woodworking Guide

Material and Cut List

FLOOR
10 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber: 15′-9″
2 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber: 12′-0″
5 – 4×4 Pressure Treated Lumber: 12′-0″
6 – 23/32″ Tongue and Groove Plywood 4′ x 8′ Sheet (cut to size)

WALLS
51 – 2×4 Lumber: 7′-5 3/4″
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 11′-5 ”
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 12′
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 16′
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 15′-5″

SIDINGS
16 – 4′ x 8′ Plywood Siding Panel T1-11 (496SF)

TRUSS
20 – 2×4 Lumber: 8′-0″
10 – 2×4 Lumber: 12′
10 – 2×4 Lumber: 3′-2 1/2″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-8 7/8″
40 – Tie Plates: 7″ or various
Metal Gusset (reference detail for sizing)

PURLIN & ROOF
12 – 2×4 Lumber: 17′-8″
10 – 4′ x 8′ 3/4″ Plywood Sheet (295SF)
Roof Underlayment (295SF)
3-Tab Roof Shingles (295SF)

TRIM
8 – 1×4 Lumber: 7′-11″

HARDWARE
3 1/2″ Galvanized Steel Nails
2″ Deck Screws
2″ Galvanized Finishing Nails
1 1/2″ Drilling Roofing Screws

*Full materials list included in PDF version

Step 1 – Foundation and Floor

Start with selecting a proper site for the shed foundation, ideally a flat solid surface away from any large trees.

The first step is cut ten 2×6 lumbers to 15’-9” length, and two 2×6 lumbers to 12’-0. Next, place the five 10’ 4×4 lumbers parallel to each other at 48” apart. Then, assemble the 2×6 perimeter frames on top, this will outline the overall floor frame. Drill pilot holes through the joists and secure with 3 ½” screws. Finally, install the eight 2×6 floor joists at 16” O.C. to complete the foundation.

After the floor frame is secured, cut the tongue and groove 23/32″ plywood to size and attach to the frame. You’ll need 6 full sheets to cover the 192SF floor area. These sheets usually come in standard sizes of 48” x 96”. Insert 2” deck screws every 8” along the joint, don’t leave any gaps between the sheets. Refer to the cut pattern below:

Step 2 – Walls

Start with the front wall frame first, all frames used here are 2 x 4’s (except the door and window header which are 2 x 6’s).

Cut two 2 x 4’s to 12’-0” in length, these will be used for the top and bottom plates. Then, cut eight 2 x 4’s to 7’-5 3/4” for wall studs, these will be placed per spacing
illustrated below. You’ll also need to cut out a 11’-5” 2 x 4 for the double top plate. Drill pilot holes through the plates and insert the 3 ½” screws into the studs to secure in place. Align the frame edges and make sure all corners are flush for a professional result.

See detailed Door and Window framing instructions here:

Shed Double Door Plan

Shed Single Door Plan

Shed Window Plan

The 2×4 studs holding up the door header need to be cut at 6′-3 1/2″.

Next up is the building up the shed’s back wall. Cut two 2 x 4’s to 12’ length, and 12 more 2 x 4’s to 7’-5 3/4” length. Then cut out a 11’-5” 2 x 4 as the double top plate. Follow the framing plan below.

Space the wall studs to 16” O.C. matching the width of the front wall frame. Drill pilot holes through the plate and insert 3 ½” screws to secure the studs.

Continue the build by assembling the 2 side wall frames. Cut two 2 x 4’s lumber to 15’-5” as top and bottom plate, then a full 16’ 2 x 4 as the double top plate. then cut 12 2 x 4’s to 7’-5 3/4” for the wall studs. The single door studs are 6’-3 ½” in length.

See door and window detail for detailed build dimensions.

Step 3 – Roof & Truss

The roof will require a total of 10 identical gable kingpost style trusses, installed 20” O.C. There are also two cross bracing placed on both ends for added stability. The trusses are designed to have an overhang of 10” on both sides. Refer to the truss detail page for dimensions and assembly instructions.

Tip: make 1 truss first and make sure everything fits in place.

Refer to the full gable truss dimensions and assembly below, use wooden gussets to joint all the truss members together. Construct a single truss first, in order to test out the overall fit.

The next step is to add purlins on top of the trusses. Measure and cut out 12 2 x 4’s to approximately 17’-8” in length. Center the purlins to leave about 10” of overhang, secure to the trusses with 3 ½” nails.

After all the purlins are secured in place, measure and cut the 3/4” plywood panels to size. These sheets usually come in standard 96” x 48” size, you’ll need about 295SF to cover the entire roof area. Insert 2 ½” nails into the purlins at about every 10” to lock the plywood sheets in place.

Next up is installing the exterior shed sidings, it’s easier to do this first before adding in the roof trims. Full exterior panel cut and assembly plans available in the full PDF version.

Measure and cut 16 T1-11 plywood siding panels to size. These shed panels are designed to interlock, so plan them out accordingly. These siding panels also come in
standard sizes of 96” x 48”, you’ll need about 496SF to cover the entire shed.

For the front wall siding, measure and cut out the door and window openings before installing. The rough double door opening is 72” x 77”, rough opening for single door is 36” x 77”, and the optional window opening is 2’-11 ¼” x 2’-11 ⅜”.

Cover the entire roofing area with roof underlayment or tar paper, this is a water￾resistant barrier material to keep the wood structures dry. You’ll need about 296SF to cover the roof.

You can also add a ridge cap on top of the gable roof, this strengthens the ridge of the roof and prevents potential leakage.

Finally, we need to lay out the roof shingles (295SF of 3-tab roof shingles). Start at the bottom of the roof, measure and mark every increment height all the way to top of the roof. Use glue or glue strip along the rake edge and drip edge. Then, insert 2 ½” nails to secure in place.

Tip: You can select the roof shingle material to match the roofing material of the main house, for a unified look! Get samples from your local hardware or home renovation store to get a close match.

Step 4 – Trims, Door, and Window

For the wall trims, measure and cut eight 1 x 4 lumbers to 7’-11”, trim the top angle as needed. Align and secure these trims with 2 ½” nails into the wall frames.

As for the double door trim: use a 6’-7” long 2 x 6 as the header trim, and two 6’-5” long 2 x 4’s as frame trims. The single door trim will need two 6’-5” 2×4’s and a single 3;-7” 2×6 header trim. The window will require a 42 ⅜” 2 x 6 header, and 35 ¼” side trims. Secure all trims to the studs with 2 ½” nails.

Add in the shed door and optional window. Refer to double door and window plans for build details.

Step 5 – Paint

You’ve completed your very own 12×16 Garden Shed! Now it’s time to paint the masterpiece.

First, wipe off any dirt or dust off the T1-11 siding surface. Prime the siding with a heavy acrylic primer, a single thorough coat will do the job. It’s best to use a small
brush to fill in the grooves and corners first, and then use a larger roller to cover up the flat areas. Let it sit and dry. Then apply two coats of exterior grade acrylic paint, allow enough time between coats to completely dry.

The post 12×16 Shed DIY Plans – Gable Roof appeared first on Build Blueprint.

Get the complete 6×10 Garden Shed plans – PDF Instant Download:
PDF includes the cut list, additional diagrams and dimensions, complete step-by-step DIY instructions.

Buy Complete PDF Plan

6×10 Garden Shed Plans | Free DIY Woodworking Guide

Material and Cut List

FLOOR
9 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber: 5′-9″
2 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber: 10′
3 – 4×4 Pressure Treated Lumber: 10′
2 – 23/32″ Tongue and Groove Plywood 4′ x 8′ Sheet (cut to size)

WALLS
38 – 2×4 Lumber: 7′-4 1/2″
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 9′-5 ”
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 10′
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-0″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 5′-5″

SIDINGS
8 – 4′ x 8′ Plywood Siding Panel T1-11 (240SF)

TRUSS
8 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-6 1/4″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 10′
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-2 1/2″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-6 3/8″
Metal Gusset (reference detail for sizing)

PURLIN & ROOF
10 – 2×4 Lumber: 7′-8″
4 – 4′ x 8′ 1/2″ Plywood Sheet (105SF)
Roof Underlayment (105SF)
3-Tab Roof Shingles (105SF)

ROOF TRIM
4 – 1×6 Lumber: 6′-8 1/8″
2 – 1×6 Lumber: 7′-8″
4 – 1/2″ Plywood: 10 3/8″ x 6-5 3/8″
2 – 1/2″ Plywood: 6′- 3/4″

TRIM
8 – 1×4 Lumber: 7′-9 5/8″

HARDWARE
3 1/2″ Galvanized Steel Nails
2″ Deck Screws
2″ Galvanized Finishing Nails
1 1/2″ Drilling Roofing Screws

DOUBLE DOOR FRAME
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-3 1/2″
6 – 2×4 Lumber: 7 1/2″
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 6′-3″ (door header)
1 – 2×6 Plywood Filler: 6′-3″ (door header)
1 – 2×6 Lumber: 6′-7″ (door trim)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-5″ (door trim)

DOUBLE DOOR
4 – 2×6 Lumber: 3′
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 2′ 5″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 5′ 6″
2 – 4′ x 8′ Plywood Siding Panel T1-11: 6′-5 3/4″ x 3′-0″
2 – Door Handle or Latch
6 – 3 1/2 in. x 5/8 in. Door Hinge

WINDOW (optional)
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 3′-2 3/8″ (header)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 3′-2 3/8″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 7′-4 1/2″
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 3′-6 3/8″ (window trim)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-11 1/4″ (window trim)
1 – 35 3/8″ x 35 3/8″ Single Hung Vinyl Window

6×10 Garden Shed Plans & Instructions

Step 1 – Foundation and Floor

Before you pick up any tools, select a proper site for the shed foundation, ideally a flat solid surface away from any large trees or branches.

First, cut nine 2×6 lumbers to 5′-9″ length, and two 2×6 lumbers to 10′-0″. Next, place the three 10′ 4×4 lumbers parallel to each other spaced evenly apart. Then, assemble the four 2×6 perimeter frame on top, this will outline the overall floor frame. Drill pilot holes through the joists and secure with 3 1/2″ screws. Finally, install the seven 2×6 floor joists at 16″ O.C., and 12″ O.C. near the sides.

After the floor frame is secured, cut the tongue and groove 23/32″ plywood to size and attach to the frame. You’ll need about 4 sheets to cover the 60SF floor area. These sheets usually come in standard sizes of 48″ x 96″. Insert 2″ deck screws every 8″ along the joint, don’t leave any gaps between the sheets. Refer to the cut pattern and dimensions illustrated below:

Step 2 – Walls

Start with the front wall frame first, all frames used here are 2×4’s (except the door and window header which are 2×6’s).

Cut two 2×4 to 10′ in length, these will be used for the top and bottom plates. Then, cut eight 2×4 to 7′-4 1/2″ for wall studs, these will be placed 16″ O.C. You’ll also need to cut out a 9′-5″ 2×4 for the double top plate. Drill pilot holes through the plates and insert the 3 1/2″ screws into the studs to secure in place. Align the frame edges and make sure all corners are flush for a professional result.

See detailed Door and Window framing instructions here:

Double Door Plan
Window Plan

The 2 x 4 studs holding up the door header need to be cut at 6′-3 1/2″.

To construct the door header, cut two 2×6 lumber to 6′-3″ length, and insert 1/2″ plywood as filler. Use wood glue and 3 1/2″ nails to secure all the pieces together.

Align the finished front wall frame with the front edge of the floor foundation:

Next up is the building the shed’s back wall. Cut two 2×4’s to 10′ length, and 11 more 2×4’s to 7′-4 1/2″ length. Then cut out a 9′-5″ 2×4 as the double top plate. Follow the framing plan below.

Space the wall studs to 16″ O.C., identical to the front wall. Drill pilot holes through the plate and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure the studs.

Continue the build by assembling the 2 side wall frames. Cut two 2 x 4’s lumber to 5′-5″ as top and bottom plate, then a full 6′ 2×4 as the double top plate. then cut ten 2×4’s to 7′-4 1/2″ for the wall and window studs.

Repeat the same assembly process for the other wall, you can choose to add another window if desired.

Now it’s time to secure all four wall frames together. First, line up the edges of the front and side wall frame with the floor frame perimeter. Make sure edges line up and there’s no gaps, use a spirit level if needed. Then, drill pilot holes through the bottom wall plate, and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure wall frame to the floor. After both wall frames are secured, lock the adjacent walls together by inserting 3 1/2″ screws or nails.

Repeat and assemble all 4 wall frames.

Step 3 – Roof & Truss

The roof will require a total of 4 identical kingpost style trusses, installed 24″ O.C. There are also two cross bracing placed on both ends for added stability. The trusses are designed to have an overhang of 10″ on both sides.

Refer to the truss details below for dimensions and assembly instructions.

Tip: make 1 truss first and make sure everything fits in place.

After you’ve finished assembling the trusses, place them 24″ O.C. on top of the wall frames. Then use 3 1/2″ nails to secure each rafter from the underside of the plate. Attach the two set of cross bracing at midpoint of the end truss bays.

The next step is to add purlins on top of the trusses. Measure and cut out 10 2×4 lumbers to approximately 7′-8″ in length. Center the purlins to leave about 10″ of overhang, secure to the trusses with 3 1/2″ nails.

After all the purlins are secured in place, measure and cut the 1/2″ plywood panels to size. These sheets usually come in standard 96″ x 48″ size, you’ll need about 105SF to cover the entire roof area. Insert 2 1/2″ nails into the purlins at about every 10″ to lock the plywood sheets in place.

Next up is installing the exterior shed sidings, it’s easier to do this first before adding in the roof trims.

Measure and cut 8 T1-11 plywood siding panels to size. These shed panels are designed to interlock, so plan them out accordingly. These siding panels also come in standard sizes of 96″ x 48″, you’ll need about 240SF to cover the entire shed.

For the front wall siding, measure and cut out the door and window openings before installing. The rough door opening is 72″ x 77″, and the optional window opening is 2′-11 1/4″ x 2′-11 3/8″.

Cover the entire roofing area with roof underlayment or tar paper, this is a water-resistant barrier material to keep the wood structures dry. An 6×10 size shed will need about 105SF to cover the entire roof.

Finally, we need to lay out the roof shingles (105SF of 3-tab roof shingles). Start at the bottom of the roof, measure and mark every increment height all the way to top of the roof. Use glue or glue strip along the rake edge and drip edge. Then, insert 2 1/2″ nails to secure in place.

Tip: You can select the roof shingle material to match the roofing material of the main house, for a unified look! Get samples from your local hardware or home renovation store to get a close match.

Step 4 – Trims, Door, and Window

For the wall trims, measure and cut eight 1×4 lumbers to 7′-9 3/4″, trim the top angle as needed. Align and secure these trims with 2 1/2″ nails into the wall frames.

As for the door trim: use a 6′-7″ long 2×6 as the header trim, and two 6′-5″ long 2×4’s as frame trims. The window will require a 42 3/8″ 2×6 header, and 35 1/4″ side trims. Secure all trims to the studs with 2 1/2″ nails.

Add in the shed door and optional window. Refer to detailed Door and Window plans here on how to build these:

Double Door Plan
Window Plan

Step 5 – Paint

Your 6×10 Garden style shed is complete! Now it’s time to style it up a little.

First, wipe off any dirt or dusts off the T1-11 siding surface and the trims. Prime the siding with a heavy acrylic primer, a single thorough coat will do the job. It’s best to use a small brush to fill in the grooves and corners first, and then use a larger roller to cover up the flat areas. Let it sit and dry. Then apply two coats of exterior grade acrylic paint, allow 2 hours between coats to completely dry.

Overall Build Summary

To sum up, garden style sheds is the most pure and traditional form of shed designs. Also, the interior space is versatile, and can be easily transformed into a backyard office, wood workshop, or music studio. The gable style roof is suitable for colder climate regions, strong against rain and snow. This set of 6×10 garden shed plans can be customized to create a number of garden shed variations, get your tools and get creative!

The post 6×10 Garden Shed Plans appeared first on Build Blueprint.

Get the complete 16×10 Garden Shed plans – PDF Instant Download:
PDF includes the cut list, additional diagrams and dimensions, complete step-by-step DIY instructions.

Buy Complete PDF Plan

16×10 Garden Shed Plans | Free DIY Woodworking Guide

Material and Cut List

FLOOR
9 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber: 15′-9″
2 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber: 10′
5 – 4×4 Pressure Treated Lumber: 10′
5 – 23/32″ Tongue and Groove Plywood 4′ x 8′ Sheet (cut to size)

WALLS
53 – 2×4 Lumber: 7′-4 1/2″
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 9′-5 ”
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 10′
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 16′
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 15′-5″

SIDINGS
15 – 4′ x 8′ Plywood Siding Panel T1-11 (450SF)

TRUSS
18 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-6 1/4″
9 – 2×4 Lumber: 10′
9 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-2 1/2″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-6 3/8″
Metal Gusset (reference detail for sizing)

PURLIN & ROOF
10 – 2×4 Lumber: 17′-8″
8 – 4′ x 8′ 1/2″ Plywood Sheet (240SF)
Roof Underlayment (240SF)
3-Tab Roof Shingles (240SF)

ROOF TRIM
4 – 1×6 Lumber: 6′-8 1/8″
2 – 1×6 Lumber: 17′-8″
4 – 1/2″ Plywood: 10 3/8″ x 6-5 3/8″
2 – 1/2″ Plywood: 16′- 3/4″

TRIM
8 – 1×4 Lumber: 7′-9 5/8″

HARDWARE
3 1/2″ Galvanized Steel Nails
2″ Deck Screws
2″ Galvanized Finishing Nails
1 1/2″ Drilling Roofing Screws

DOUBLE DOOR FRAME
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-3 1/2″
6 – 2×4 Lumber: 7 1/2″
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 6′-3″ (door header)
1 – 2×6 Plywood Filler: 6′-3″ (door header)
1 – 2×6 Lumber: 6′-7″ (door trim)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-5″ (door trim)

DOUBLE DOOR
4 – 2×6 Lumber: 3′
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 2′ 5″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 5′ 6″
2 – 4′ x 8′ Plywood Siding Panel T1-11: 6′-5 3/4″ x 3′-0″
2 – Door Handle or Latch
6 – 3 1/2 in. x 5/8 in. Door Hinge

WINDOW (optional)
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 7′-4 1/2″
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 3′-2 3/8″ (header)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 3′-2 3/8″
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 3′-6 3/8″ (window trim)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-11 1/4″ (window trim)
1 – 35 3/8″ x 35 3/8″ Single Hung Vinyl Window

Step 1 – Foundation and Floor

Start with selecting a proper site for the 16×10 garden shed foundation, ideally a flat solid surface away from any large trees.

The first step is cut nine 2×6 lumbers to 15′-9″ length, and two 2×6 lumbers to 10’0″. Next, place the five 10′ 4×4 lumbers parallel to each other evenly apart. Then, assemble the four 2×6 perimeter frame on top, this will outline the overall floor frame. Drill pilot holes through the joists and secure with 3 1/2″ screws. Finally, install the seven 2×6 floor joists at 16″ O.C., and 12″ O.C. near the sides.

After the floor frame is secured, cut the tongue and groove 23/32″ plywood to size and attach to the frame. You’ll need about 5 full sheets to cover the 160SF floor area. These sheets usually come in standard sizes of 48″ x 96″. Insert 2″ deck screws every 8″ along the joint, don’t leave any gaps between the sheets. Refer to the cut pattern and dimensions illustrated below:

Step 2 – Walls

Start with the front wall frame first, all frames used here are 2×4’s (except the door and window header which are 2×6’s).

Cut two 2×4 to 10′ in length, these will be used for the top and bottom plates. Then, cut eight 2×4 to 7′-4 1/2″ for wall studs, these will be placed 16″ O.C. You’ll also need to cut out a 9′-5″ 2×4 for the double top plate. Drill pilot holes through the plates and insert the 3 1/2″ screws into the studs to secure in place. Align the frame edges and make sure all corners are flush for a professional result.

See detailed Door and Window framing instructions here:

Shed Double Door Plan

Shed Single Door Plan

Shed Window Plan

The 2 x 4 studs holding up the door header need to be cut at 6′-3 1/2″.

To construct the door header, cut two 2×6 lumber to 6′-3″ length, and insert 1/2″ plywood as filler. Use wood glue and 3 1/2″ nails to secure all the pieces together.

Align the finished front wall frame with the front edge of the floor foundation:

Next up is the building the 16×10 shed’s back wall. Cut two 2×4’s to 10′ length, and 11 more 1×4’s to 7′-4 1/2″ length. Then cut out a 9′-5″ 2×4 as the double top plate. Follow the framing plan below.

Space the wall studs to 16″ O.C., identical to the front wall. Drill pilot holes through the plate and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure the studs.

Continue the build by assembling the 2 side wall frames. Cut two 2×4’s lumber to 15′-5″ as top and bottom plate, then a full 12′ 2×4 as the double top plate. then cut ten 2×4’s to 7′-4 1/2″ for the wall studs.

The east side wall is built with 15 2×4 wall studs at 7′-4 1/2″ length, spaced 16″ apart on center. The top and bottom plates are 15′-5″ 2×4’s, with the double top plate at 16′-0″. Drill pilot holes through the plate and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure the studs.

Now it’s time to secure all four wall frames together for your 16×10 garden shed. First, line up the edges of the front and side wall frame with the floor frame perimeter. Make sure edges line up and there’s no gaps, use a spirit level if needed. Then, drill pilot holes through the bottom wall plate, and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure wall frame to the floor. After both wall frames are secured, lock the adjacent walls together by inserting 3 1/2″ screws or nails.

Repeat and assemble all 4 wall frames.

Step 3 – Roof & Truss

The roof will require a total of 9 identical kingpost style trusses, installed 24″ O.C. There are also two cross bracing placed on both ends for added stability. The trusses are designed to have an overhang of 10″ on both sides.

Refer to the truss details below for dimensions and assembly instructions.

Tip: make 1 truss first and make sure everything fits in place.

After you’ve finished assembling the trusses, place them 24″ O.C. on top of the wall frames. The 16×10 garden shed will require at least 9 trusses and 2 set of bracing on both ends. Use 3 1/2″ nails to secure each rafter from the underside of the plate. Attach the two set of cross bracing at midpoint of the end truss bays.

The next step is to add purlins on top of the trusses. Measure and cut out 10 2×4 lumbers to approximately 17′-8″ in length. Center the purlins to leave about 10″ of overhang, secure to the trusses with 3 1/2″ nails.

After all the purlins are secured in place, measure and cut the 1/2″ plywood panels to size. These sheets usually come in standard 96″ x 48″ size, you’ll need about 240SF to cover the entire roof area. Insert 2 1/2″ nails into the purlins at about every 10″ to lock the plywood sheets in place.

Next up is installing the exterior shed sidings, it’s easier to do this first before adding in the roof trims.

Measure and cut 15 T1-11 plywood siding panels to size. These shed panels are designed to interlock, so plan them out accordingly. These siding panels also come in standard sizes of 96″ x 48″, you’ll need about 450SF to cover the entire 16×10 shed.

The front double door opening is 6′-3 1/2″ x 6′. For the side wall siding, measure and cut out the door and window openings before installing. The rough door opening is 72″ x 77″, and the optional window opening is 2′-11 1/4″ x 2′-11 3/8″.

Cover the entire roofing area with roof underlayment or tar paper, this is a water-resistant barrier material to keep the wood structures dry. A 16×10 garden shed will require about 240SF to cover the entire roof area.

Finally, we need to lay out the roof shingles (240SF of 3-tab roof shingles). Start at the bottom of the roof, measure and mark every increment height all the way to top of the roof. Use glue or glue strip along the rake edge and drip edge. Then, insert 2 1/2″ nails to secure in place.

Tip: You can select the roof shingle material to match the roofing material of the main house, for a unified look! Get samples from your local hardware or home renovation store to get a close match.

Step 4 – Trims, Door, and Window

For the 16×10 garden shed wall trims, measure and cut eight 1×4 lumbers to 7′-9 3/4″, trim the top angle as needed. Align and secure these trims with 2 1/2″ nails into the wall frames.

As for the door trim: use two 6′-7″ long 2×6 as the header trim, and two 6′-5″ long 2×4’s as frame trims. The window will require a 42 3/8″ 2×6 header, and 35 1/4″ side trims. Secure all trims to the studs with 2 1/2″ nails.

Add in the shed door and optional window. Refer to detailed Door and Window plans here on how to build these:

Shed Double Door Plan

Shed Single Door Plan

Shed Window Plan

Step 5 – Paint

You’ve completed your very own 16×10 Garden Shed! Now it’s time to paint your new masterpiece.

First, wipe off any dirt or dusts off the T1-11 siding surface and the trims. Prime the siding with a heavy acrylic primer, a single thorough coat will do the job. It’s best to use a small brush to fill in the grooves and corners first, and then use a larger roller to cover up the flat areas. Let it sit and dry. Then apply two coats of exterior grade acrylic paint, allow 2 hours between coats to completely dry.

The post 16×10 Garden Shed Plans appeared first on Build Blueprint.

Get the complete 14×10 Garden Shed plans – PDF Instant Download:
PDF includes the cut list, additional diagrams and dimensions, complete step-by-step DIY instructions.

Buy Complete PDF Plan

14×10 Garden Shed Plans | Free DIY Woodworking Guide

Material and Cut List

FLOOR
9 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber: 13′-9″
2 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber: 10′
4 – 4×4 Pressure Treated Lumber: 10′
5 – 23/32″ Tongue and Groove Plywood 4′ x 8′ Sheet (cut to size)

WALLS
50 – 2×4 Lumber: 7′-4 1/2″
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 9′-5 ”
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 10′
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 14′
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 13′-5″

SIDINGS
13 – 4′ x 8′ Plywood Siding Panel T1-11 (416SF)

TRUSS
16 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-6 1/4″
8 – 2×4 Lumber: 10′
8 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-2 1/2″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-6 3/8″
Metal Gusset (reference detail for sizing)

PURLIN & ROOF
10 – 2×4 Lumber: 15′-8″
7 – 4′ x 8′ 1/2″ Plywood Sheet (210SF)
Roof Underlayment (210SF)
3-Tab Roof Shingles (210SF)

ROOF TRIM
4 – 1×6 Lumber: 6′-8 1/8″
2 – 1×6 Lumber: 15′-8″
4 – 1/2″ Plywood: 10 3/8″ x 6-5 3/8″
2 – 1/2″ Plywood: 14′- 3/4″

TRIM
8 – 1×4 Lumber: 7′-9 5/8″

HARDWARE
3 1/2″ Galvanized Steel Nails
2″ Deck Screws
2″ Galvanized Finishing Nails
1 1/2″ Drilling Roofing Screws

DOUBLE DOOR FRAME
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-3 1/2″
6 – 2×4 Lumber: 7 1/2″
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 6′-3″ (door header)
1 – 2×6 Plywood Filler: 6′-3″ (door header)
1 – 2×6 Lumber: 6′-7″ (door trim)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-5″ (door trim)

DOUBLE DOOR
4 – 2×6 Lumber: 3′
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 2′ 5″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 5′ 6″
2 – 4′ x 8′ Plywood Siding Panel T1-11: 6′-5 3/4″ x 3′-0″
2 – Door Handle or Latch
6 – 3 1/2 in. x 5/8 in. Door Hinge

WINDOW (optional)
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 7′-4 1/2″
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 3′-2 3/8″ (header)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 3′-2 3/8″
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 3′-6 3/8″ (window trim)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-11 1/4″ (window trim)
1 – 35 3/8″ x 35 3/8″ Single Hung Vinyl Window

Step 1 – Foundation and Floor

Start with selecting a proper site for the 14×10 garden shed foundation, ideally a flat solid surface away from any large trees.

The first step is cut nine 2×6 lumbers to 13′-9″ length, and two 2×6 lumbers to 10’0″. Next, place the four 10′ 4×4 lumbers parallel to each other evenly apart. Then, assemble the four 2×6 perimeter frame on top, this will outline the overall floor frame. Drill pilot holes through the joists and secure with 3 1/2″ screws. Finally, install the seven 2×6 floor joists at 16″ O.C., and 12″ O.C. near the sides.

After the floor frame is secured, cut the tongue and groove 23/32″ plywood to size and attach to the frame. You’ll need about 5 full sheets to cover the 140SF floor area. These sheets usually come in standard sizes of 48″ x 96″. Insert 2″ deck screws every 8″ along the joint, don’t leave any gaps between the sheets. Refer to the cut pattern and dimensions illustrated below:

Step 2 – Walls

Start with the front wall frame first, all frames used here are 2×4’s (except the door and window header which are 2×6’s).

Cut two 2×4 to 10′ in length, these will be used for the top and bottom plates. Then, cut eight 2×4 to 7′-4 1/2″ for wall studs, these will be placed 16″ O.C. You’ll also need to cut out a 9′-5″ 2×4 for the double top plate. Drill pilot holes through the plates and insert the 3 1/2″ screws into the studs to secure in place. Align the frame edges and make sure all corners are flush for a professional result.

See detailed Door and Window framing instructions here:

Shed Double Door Plan

Shed Single Door Plan

Shed Window Plan

The 2 x 4 studs holding up the door header need to be cut at 6′-3 1/2″.

To construct the door header, cut two 2×6 lumber to 6′-3″ length, and insert 1/2″ plywood as filler. Use wood glue and 3 1/2″ nails to secure all the pieces together.

Align the finished front wall frame with the front edge of the floor foundation:

Next up is the building the 14×10 shed’s back wall. Cut two 2×4’s to 10′ length, and 11 more 2×4’s to 7′-4 1/2″ length. Then cut out a 9′-5″ 2×4 as the double top plate. Follow the framing plan below.

Space the wall studs to 16″ O.C., identical to the front wall. Drill pilot holes through the plate and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure the studs.

Continue the build by assembling the 2 side wall frames. Cut two 2×4’s lumber to 13′-5″ as top and bottom plate, then a full 12′ 2×4 as the double top plate. then cut 14 2×4’s to 7′-4 1/2″ for the wall studs.

The east side wall is built with 13 2×4 wall studs at 7′-4 1/2″ length, spaced 16″ apart on center. The top and bottom plates are 13′-5″ 2×4’s, with the double top plate at 14′-0″. Drill pilot holes through the plate and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure the studs.

Now it’s time to secure all four wall frames together for your 14×10 garden shed. First, line up the edges of the front and side wall frame with the floor frame perimeter. Make sure edges line up and there’s no gaps, use a spirit level if needed. Then, drill pilot holes through the bottom wall plate, and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure wall frame to the floor. After both wall frames are secured, lock the adjacent walls together by inserting 3 1/2″ screws or nails.

Repeat and assemble all 4 wall frames.

Step 3 – Roof & Truss

The roof will require a total of 8 identical kingpost style trusses, installed 24″ O.C. There are also two cross bracing placed on both ends for added stability. The trusses are designed to have an overhang of 10″ on both sides.

Refer to the truss details below for dimensions and assembly instructions.

Tip: make 1 truss first and make sure everything fits in place.

After you’ve finished assembling the trusses, place them 24″ O.C. on top of the wall frames. The 14×10 garden shed will require at least 8 trusses and 2 set of bracing on both ends. Use 3 1/2″ nails to secure each rafter from the underside of the plate. Attach the two set of cross bracing at midpoint of the end truss bays.

The next step is to add purlins on top of the trusses. Measure and cut out 10 2×4 lumbers to approximately 15′-8″ in length. Center the purlins to leave about 10″ of overhang, secure to the trusses with 3 1/2″ nails.

After all the purlins are secured in place, measure and cut the 1/2″ plywood panels to size. These sheets usually come in standard 96″ x 48″ size, you’ll need about 210SF to cover the entire roof area. Insert 2 1/2″ nails into the purlins at about every 10″ to lock the plywood sheets in place.

Next up is installing the exterior shed sidings, it’s easier to do this first before adding in the roof trims.

Measure and cut 13 T1-11 plywood siding panels to size. These shed panels are designed to interlock, so plan them out accordingly. These siding panels also come in standard sizes of 96″ x 48″, you’ll need about 416SF to cover the entire 14×10 shed.

The front double door opening is 6′-3 1/2″ x 6′. For the side wall siding, measure and cut out the door and window openings before installing. The rough door opening is 72″ x 77″, and the optional window opening is 2′-11 1/4″ x 2′-11 3/8″.

Cover the entire roofing area with roof underlayment or tar paper, this is a water-resistant barrier material to keep the wood structures dry. A 14×10 garden shed will require about 210SF to cover the entire roof area.

Finally, we need to lay out the roof shingles (210SF of 3-tab roof shingles). Start at the bottom of the roof, measure and mark every increment height all the way to top of the roof. Use glue or glue strip along the rake edge and drip edge. Then, insert 2 1/2″ nails to secure in place.

Tip: You can select the roof shingle material to match the roofing material of the main house, for a unified look! Get samples from your local hardware or home renovation store to get a close match.

Step 4 – Trims, Door, and Window

For the 14×10 garden shed wall trims, measure and cut eight 1×4 lumbers to 7′-9 3/4″, trim the top angle as needed. Align and secure these trims with 2 1/2″ nails into the wall frames.

As for the door trim: use two 6′-7″ long 2 x 6 as the header trim, and two 6′-5″ long 2×4’s as frame trims. The window will require a 42 3/8″ 2×6 header, and 35 1/4″ side trims. Secure all trims to the studs with 2 1/2″ nails.

Add in the shed door and optional window. Refer to detailed Door and Window plans here on how to build these:

Shed Double Door Plan

Shed Single Door Plan

Shed Window Plan

Step 5 – Paint

You’ve completed your very own 14×10 Garden Shed! Now it’s time to paint the masterpiece.

First, wipe off any dirt or dusts off the T1-11 siding surface and the trims. Prime the siding with a heavy acrylic primer, a single thorough coat will do the job. It’s best to use a small brush to fill in the grooves and corners first, and then use a larger roller to cover up the flat areas. Let it sit and dry. Then apply two coats of exterior grade acrylic paint, allow 2 hours between coats to completely dry.

The post 14×10 Garden Shed Plans appeared first on Build Blueprint.

Get the complete 8×10 Garden Shed plans – PDF Instant Download:
PDF includes the cut list, additional diagrams and dimensions, complete step-by-step DIY instructions.

Buy Complete PDF Plan

8×10 Garden Shed Plans | Free DIY Woodworking Guide

Material and Cut List

FLOOR
9 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber: 7′-9″
2 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber: 10′
4 – 4×4 Pressure Treated Lumber: 10′
3 – 23/32″ Tongue and Groove Plywood 4′ x 8′ Sheet (cut to size)

WALLS
41 – 2×4 Lumber: 7′-4 1/2″
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 9′-5 ”
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 10′
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 8′-0″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 7′-5″

SIDINGS
10 – 4′ x 8′ Plywood Siding Panel T1-11 (315SF)

TRUSS
10 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-6 1/4″
5 – 2×4 Lumber: 10′
5 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-2 1/2″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-6 3/8″
Metal Gusset (reference detail for sizing)

PURLIN & ROOF
10 – 2×4 Lumber: 9′-8″
4 – 4′ x 8′ 1/2″ Plywood Sheet (132SF)
Roof Underlayment (132SF)
3-Tab Roof Shingles (132SF)

ROOF TRIM
4 – 1×6 Lumber: 6′-8 1/8″
2 – 1×6 Lumber: 9′-8″
4 – 1/2″ Plywood: 10 3/8″ x 6-5 3/8″
2 – 1/2″ Plywood: 8′- 3/4″

TRIM
8 – 1×4 Lumber: 7′-9 5/8″

HARDWARE
3 1/2″ Galvanized Steel Nails
2″ Deck Screws
2″ Galvanized Finishing Nails
1 1/2″ Drilling Roofing Screws

DOUBLE DOOR FRAME
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-3 1/2″
6 – 2×4 Lumber: 7 1/2″
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 6′-3″ (door header)
1 – 2×6 Plywood Filler: 6′-3″ (door header)
1 – 2×6 Lumber: 6′-7″ (door trim)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-5″ (door trim)

WINDOW (optional)
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 7′-4 1/2″
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 3′-2 3/8″ (header)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 3′-2 3/8″
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 3′-6 3/8″ (window trim)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-11 1/4″ (window trim)
1 – 35 3/8″ x 35 3/8″ Single Hung Vinyl Window

Step 1 – Foundation and Floor

Start with selecting a proper site for the shed foundation, ideally a flat solid surface away from any large trees.

The first step is cut nine 2×6 lumbers to 7′-9″ length, and two 2×6 lumbers to 10′-0″. Next, place the four 10′ 4×4 lumbers parallel to each other spaced evenly apart. Then, assemble the four 2×6 perimeter frame on top, this will outline the overall floor frame. Drill pilot holes through the joists and secure with 3 1/2″ screws. Finally, install the seven 2×6 floor joists at 16″ O.C., and 12″ O.C. near the sides.

After the floor frame is secured, cut the tongue and groove 23/32″ plywood to size and attach to the frame. You’ll need about 4 full sheets to cover the 80SF floor area. These sheets usually come in standard sizes of 48″ x 96″. Insert 2″ deck screws every 8″ along the joint, don’t leave any gaps between the sheets. Refer to the cut pattern and dimensions illustrated below:

Step 2 – Walls

Start with the front wall frame first, all frames used here are 2×4’s (except the door and window header which are 2×6’s).

Cut two 2×4 to 10′ in length, these will be used for the top and bottom plates. Then, cut eight 2×4 to 7′-4 1/2″ for wall studs, these will be placed 16″ O.C. You’ll also need to cut out a 9′-5″ 2×4 for the double top plate. Drill pilot holes through the plates and insert the 3 1/2″ screws into the studs to secure in place. Align the frame edges and make sure all corners are flush for a professional result.

See detailed Door and Window framing instructions here:

Shed Double Door Plan
Shed Window Plan

The 2 x 4 studs holding up the door header need to be cut at 6′-3 1/2″.

To construct the door header, cut two 2×6 lumber to 6′-3″ length, and insert 1/2″ plywood as filler. Use wood glue and 3 1/2″ nails to secure all the pieces together.

Align the finished front wall frame with the front edge of the floor foundation:

Next up is the building the shed’s back wall. Cut two 2×4’s to 10′ length, and 11 more 2×4’s to 7′-4 1/2″ length. Then cut out a 9′-5″ 2×4 as the double top plate. Follow the framing plan below.

Space the wall studs to 16″ O.C., identical to the front wall. Drill pilot holes through the plate and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure the studs.

Continue the build by assembling the 2 side wall frames. Cut two 2 x 4’s lumber to 7′-5″ as top and bottom plate, then a full 8′ 2×4 as the double top plate. then cut ten 2×4’s to 7′-4 1/2″ for the wall studs.

Now it’s time to secure all four wall frames together. First, line up the edges of the front and side wall frame with the floor frame perimeter. Make sure edges line up and there’s no gaps, use a spirit level if needed. Then, drill pilot holes through the bottom wall plate, and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure wall frame to the floor. After both wall frames are secured, lock the adjacent walls together by inserting 3 1/2″ screws or nails.

Repeat and assemble all 4 wall frames.

Step 3 – Roof & Truss

The roof will require a total of 5 identical kingpost style trusses, installed 24″ O.C. There are also two cross bracing placed on both ends for added stability. The trusses are designed to have an overhang of 10″ on both sides.

Refer to the truss details below for dimensions and assembly instructions.

Tip: make 1 truss first and make sure everything fits in place.

After you’ve finished assembling the trusses, place them 24″ O.C. on top of the wall frames. Then use 3 1/2″ nails to secure each rafter from the underside of the plate. Attach the two set of cross bracing at midpoint of the end truss bays.

The next step is to add purlins on top of the trusses. Measure and cut out 10 2×4 lumbers to approximately 9′-8″ in length. Center the purlins to leave about 10″ of overhang, secure to the trusses with 3 1/2″ nails.

After all the purlins are secured in place, measure and cut the 1/2″ plywood panels to size. These sheets usually come in standard 96″ x 48″ size, you’ll need about 132SF to cover the entire roof area. Insert 2 1/2″ nails into the purlins at about every 10″ to lock the plywood sheets in place.

Next up is installing the exterior shed sidings, it’s easier to do this first before adding in the roof trims.

Measure and cut 10 T1-11 plywood siding panels to size. These shed panels are designed to interlock, so plan them out accordingly. These siding panels also come in standard sizes of 96″ x 48″, you’ll need about 315SF to cover the entire shed.

For the front wall siding, measure and cut out the door and window openings before installing. The rough door opening is 72″ x 77″, and the optional window opening is 2′-11 1/4″ x 2′-11 3/8″.

Cover the entire roofing area with roof underlayment or tar paper, this is a water-resistant barrier material to keep the wood structures dry. An 8×10 size shed will need about 132SF to cover the entire roof.

Finally, we need to lay out the roof shingles (132SF of 3-tab roof shingles). Start at the bottom of the roof, measure and mark every increment height all the way to top of the roof. Use glue or glue strip along the rake edge and drip edge. Then, insert 2 1/2″ nails to secure in place.

Tip: You can select the roof shingle material to match the roofing material of the main house, for a unified look! Get samples from your local hardware or home renovation store to get a close match.

Step 4 – Trims, Door, and Window

For the wall trims, measure and cut eight 1×4 lumbers to 7′-9 3/4″, trim the top angle as needed. Align and secure these trims with 2 1/2″ nails into the wall frames.

As for the door trim: use a 6′-7″ long 2×6 as the header trim, and two 6′-5″ long 2×4’s as frame trims. The window will require a 42 3/8″ 2×6 header, and 35 1/4″ side trims. Secure all trims to the studs with 2 1/2″ nails.

Add in the shed door and optional window. Refer to detailed Door and Window plans here on how to build these:

Shed Double Door Plan
Shed Window Plan

Step 5 – Paint

Your 8×10 Garden style shed is complete! Now it’s time to style it up a little.

First, wipe off any dirt or dusts off the T1-11 siding surface and the trims. Prime the siding with a heavy acrylic primer, a single thorough coat will do the job. It’s best to use a small brush to fill in the grooves and corners first, and then use a larger roller to cover up the flat areas. Let it sit and dry. Then apply two coats of exterior grade acrylic paint, allow 2 hours between coats to completely dry.

The post 8×10 Garden Shed Plans appeared first on Build Blueprint.

Get the complete 12×10 Garden Shed plans – PDF Instant Download:
PDF includes the cut list, additional diagrams and dimensions, complete step-by-step DIY instructions.

Buy Complete PDF Plan

12×10 Garden Shed Plans | Free DIY Woodworking Guide

Material and Cut List

FLOOR
9 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber: 11′-9″
2 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber: 10′
4 – 4×4 Pressure Treated Lumber: 10′
4 – 23/32″ Tongue and Groove Plywood 4′ x 8′ Sheet (cut to size)

WALLS
46 – 2×4 Lumber: 7′-4 1/2″
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 9′-5 ”
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 10′
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 12′
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 11′-5″

SIDINGS
12 – 4′ x 8′ Plywood Siding Panel T1-11 (380SF)

TRUSS
14 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-6 1/4″
7 – 2×4 Lumber: 10′
7 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-2 1/2″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-6 3/8″
Metal Gusset (reference detail for sizing)

PURLIN & ROOF
10 – 2×4 Lumber: 13′-8″
7 – 4′ x 8′ 1/2″ Plywood Sheet (205SF)
Roof Underlayment (205SF)
3-Tab Roof Shingles (205SF)

ROOF TRIM
4 – 1×6 Lumber: 6′-8 1/8″
2 – 1×6 Lumber: 13′-8″
4 – 1/2″ Plywood: 10 3/8″ x 6-5 3/8″
2 – 1/2″ Plywood: 12′- 3/4″

TRIM
8 – 1×4 Lumber: 7′-9 5/8″

HARDWARE
3 1/2″ Galvanized Steel Nails
2″ Deck Screws
2″ Galvanized Finishing Nails
1 1/2″ Drilling Roofing Screws

DOUBLE DOOR FRAME
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-3 1/2″
6 – 2×4 Lumber: 7 1/2″
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 6′-3″ (door header)
1 – 2×6 Plywood Filler: 6′-3″ (door header)
1 – 2×6 Lumber: 6′-7″ (door trim)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-5″ (door trim)

DOUBLE DOOR
4 – 2×6 Lumber: 3′
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 2′ 5″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 5′ 6″
2 – 4′ x 8′ Plywood Siding Panel T1-11: 6′-5 3/4″ x 3′-0″
2 – Door Handle or Latch
6 – 3 1/2 in. x 5/8 in. Door Hinge

WINDOW (optional)
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 7′-4 1/2″
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 3′-2 3/8″ (header)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 3′-2 3/8″
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 3′-6 3/8″ (window trim)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-11 1/4″ (window trim)
1 – 35 3/8″ x 35 3/8″ Single Hung Vinyl Window

Step 1 – Foundation and Floor

Start with selecting a proper site for the shed foundation, ideally a flat solid surface away from any large trees.

The first step is cut nine 2×6 lumbers to 11′-9″ length, and two 2×6 lumbers to 10’0″. Next, place the four 10′ 4×4 lumbers parallel to each other at 48″ apart. Then, assemble the four 2×6 perimeter frame on top, this will outline the overall floor frame. Drill pilot holes through the joists and secure with 3 1/2″ screws. Finally, install the seven 2×6 floor joists at 16″ O.C., and 12″ O.C. near the sides.

After the floor frame is secured, cut the tongue and groove 23/32″ plywood to size and attach to the frame. You’ll need about 4 full sheets to cover the 120SF floor area. These sheets usually come in standard sizes of 48″ x 96″. Insert 2″ deck screws every 8″ along the joint, don’t leave any gaps between the sheets. Refer to the cut pattern and dimensions illustrated below:

Step 2 – Walls

Start with the front wall frame first, all frames used here are 2×4’s (except the door and window header which are 2×6’s).

Cut two 2×4 to 10′ in length, these will be used for the top and bottom plates. Then, cut eight 2×4 to 7′-4 1/2″ for wall studs, these will be placed 16″ O.C. You’ll also need to cut out a 9′-5″ 2×4 for the double top plate. Drill pilot holes through the plates and insert the 3 1/2″ screws into the studs to secure in place. Align the frame edges and make sure all corners are flush for a professional result.

See detailed Door and Window framing instructions here:

Shed Double Door Plan

Shed Single Door Plan

Shed Window Plan

The 2×4 studs holding up the door header need to be cut at 6′-3 1/2″.

To construct the door header, cut two 2×6 lumber to 6′-3″ length, and insert 1/2″ plywood as filler. Use wood glue and 3 1/2″ nails to secure all the pieces together.

Align the finished front wall frame with the front edge of the floor foundation:

Next up is the building the shed’s back wall. Cut two 2×4’s to 10′ length, and 11 more  2×4’s to 7′-4 1/2″ length. Then cut out a 9′-5″ 2×4 as the double top plate. Follow the framing plan below.

Space the wall studs to 16″ O.C., identical to the front wall. Drill pilot holes through the plate and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure the studs.

Continue the build by assembling the 2 side wall frames. Cut two 2×4’s lumber to 11′-5″ as top and bottom plate, then a full 12′ 2×4 as the double top plate. then cut 13 2×4’s to 7′-4 1/2″ for the wall studs.

The east side wall is built with twelve 2×4 wall studs at 7′-4 1/2″ length, spaced 16″ apart on center. The top and bottom plates are 11′-5″ 2×4’s, with the double top plate at 12′-0″. Drill pilot holes through the plate and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure the studs.

Now it’s time to secure all four wall frames together for your 12×10 garden shed. First, line up the edges of the front and side wall frame with the floor frame perimeter. Make sure edges line up and there’s no gaps, use a spirit level if needed. Then, drill pilot holes through the bottom wall plate, and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure wall frame to the floor. After both wall frames are secured, lock the adjacent walls together by inserting 3 1/2″ screws or nails.

Repeat and assemble all 4 wall frames.

Step 3 – Roof & Truss

The roof will require a total of 7 identical kingpost style trusses, installed 24″ O.C. There are also two cross bracing placed on both ends for added stability. The trusses are designed to have an overhang of 10″ on both sides.

Refer to the truss details below for dimensions and assembly instructions.

Tip: make 1 truss first and make sure everything fits in place.

After you’ve finished assembling the trusses, place them 24″ O.C. on top of the wall frames. Then use 3 1/2″ nails to secure each rafter from the underside of the plate. Attach the two set of cross bracing at midpoint of the end truss bays.

The next step is to add purlins on top of the trusses. Measure and cut out 10 2×4 lumbers to approximately 13′-8″ in length. Center the purlins to leave about 10″ of overhang, secure to the trusses with 3 1/2″ nails.

After all the purlins are secured in place, measure and cut the 1/2″ plywood panels to size. These sheets usually come in standard 96″ x 48″ size, you’ll need about 180SF to cover the entire roof area. Insert 2 1/2″ nails into the purlins at about every 10″ to lock the plywood sheets in place.

Next up is installing the exterior shed sidings, it’s easier to do this first before adding in the roof trims.

Measure and cut 12 T1-11 plywood siding panels to size. These shed panels are designed to interlock, so plan them out accordingly. These siding panels also come in standard sizes of 96″ x 48″, you’ll need about 380SF to cover the entire shed.

The front double door opening is 6′-3 1/2″ x 6′. For the side wall siding, measure and cut out the door and window openings before installing. The rough door opening is 72″ x 77″, and the optional window opening is 2′-11 1/4″ x 2′-11 3/8″.

Cover the entire roofing area with roof underlayment or tar paper, this is a water-resistant barrier material to keep the wood structures dry. A 12×10 sized shed will require about 180SF to cover the entire roof area.

Finally, we need to lay out the roof shingles (180SF of 3-tab roof shingles). Start at the bottom of the roof, measure and mark every increment height all the way to top of the roof. Use glue or glue strip along the rake edge and drip edge. Then, insert 2 1/2″ nails to secure in place.

Tip: You can select the roof shingle material to match the roofing material of the main house, for a unified look! Get samples from your local hardware or home renovation store to get a close match.

Step 4 – Trims, Door, and Window

For the wall trims, measure and cut eight 1×4 lumbers to 7′-9 3/4″, trim the top angle as needed. Align and secure these trims with 2 1/2″ nails into the wall frames.

As for the door trim: use two 6′-7″ long 2×6 as the header trim, and two 6′-5″ long 2×4’s as frame trims. The window will require a 42 3/8″ 2×6 header, and 35 1/4″ side trims. Secure all trims to the studs with 2 1/2″ nails.

Add in the shed door and optional window. Refer to detailed Door and Window plans here on how to build these:

Shed Double Door Plan

Shed Single Door Plan

Shed Window Plan

Step 5 – Paint

You’ve completed your very own 12×10 garden shed! Now it’s time to paint the masterpiece.

First, wipe off any dirt or dusts off the T1-11 siding surface and the trims. Prime the siding with a heavy acrylic primer, a single thorough coat will do the job. It’s best to use a small brush to fill in the grooves and corners first, and then use a larger roller to cover up the flat areas. Let it sit and dry. Then apply two coats of exterior grade acrylic paint, allow 2 hours between coats to completely dry.

The post 12×10 Garden Shed Plans appeared first on Build Blueprint.

Get the complete 10×10 Garden Shed plans – PDF Instant Download:
PDF includes the cut list, additional diagrams and dimensions, complete step-by-step DIY instructions.

Buy Complete PDF Plan

10×10 Garden Shed Plans | Free DIY Woodworking Guide

Material and Cut List

FLOOR
9 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber: 9′-9″
2 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber: 10′
4 – 4×4 Pressure Treated Lumber: 10′
4 – 23/32″ Tongue and Groove Plywood 4′ x 8′ Sheet (cut to size)

WALLS
45 – 2×4 Lumber: 7′-4 1/2″
6 – 2×4 Lumber: 9′-5 ”
6 – 2×4 Lumber: 10′

SIDINGS
11 – 4′ x 8′ Plywood Siding Panel T1-11 (345SF)

TRUSS
12 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-6 1/4″
6 – 2×4 Lumber: 10′
6 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-2 1/2″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-6 3/8″
Metal Gusset (reference detail for sizing)

PURLIN & ROOF
10 – 2×4 Lumber: 11′-8″
5 – 4′ x 8′ 1/2″ Plywood Sheet (160SF)
Roof Underlayment (160SF)
3-Tab Roof Shingles (160SF)

ROOF TRIM
4 – 1×6 Lumber: 6′-8 1/8″
2 – 1×6 Lumber: 11′-8″
4 – 1/2″ Plywood: 10 3/8″ x 6-5 3/8″
2 – 1/2″ Plywood: 10′- 3/4″

TRIM
8 – 1×4 Lumber: 7′-9 5/8″

HARDWARE
3 1/2″ Galvanized Steel Nails
2″ Deck Screws
2″ Galvanized Finishing Nails
1 1/2″ Drilling Roofing Screws

DOUBLE DOOR FRAME
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-3 1/2″
6 – 2×4 Lumber: 7 1/2″
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 6′-3″ (door header)
1 – 2×6 Plywood Filler: 6′-3″ (door header)
1 – 2×6 Lumber: 6′-7″ (door trim)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 6′-5″ (door trim)

DOUBLE DOOR
4 – 2×6 Lumber: 3′
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 2′ 5″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 5′ 6″
2 – 4′ x 8′ Plywood Siding Panel T1-11: 6′-5 3/4″ x 3′-0″
2 – Door Handle or Latch
6 – 3 1/2 in. x 5/8 in. Door Hinge

WINDOW (optional)
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 3′-2 3/8″ (header)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 3′-2 3/8″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 7′-4 1/2″
2 – 2×6 Lumber: 3′-6 3/8″ (window trim)
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-11 1/4″ (window trim)
1 – 35 3/8″ x 35 3/8″ Single Hung Vinyl Window

10×10 Garden Shed Plans & Instructions

Step 1 – Foundation and Floor

Start with selecting a proper site for the shed foundation, ideally a flat solid surface away from any large trees.

The first step is cut nine 2×6 lumbers to 9′-9″ length, and two 2×6 lumbers to 10′-0″. Next, place the four 10′ 4×4 lumbers parallel to each other at 40″ apart. Then, assemble the four 2×6 perimeter frame on top, this will outline the overall floor frame. Drill pilot holes through the joists and secure with 3 1/2″ screws. Finally, install the seven 2×6 floor joists at 16″ O.C., and 12″ O.C. near the sides.

After the floor frame is secured, cut the tongue and groove 23/32″ plywood to size and attach to the frame. You’ll need about 4 full sheets to cover the 100SF floor area. These sheets usually come in standard sizes of 48″ x 96″. Insert 2″ deck screws every 8″ along the joint, don’t leave any gaps between the sheets. Refer to the cut pattern and dimensions illustrated below:

Step 2 – Walls

Start with the front wall frame first, all frames used here are 2×4’s (except the door and window header which are 2×6’s).

Cut two 2×4 to 10′ in length, these will be used for the top and bottom plates. Then, cut eight 2 x 4 to 7′-4 1/2″ for wall studs, these will be placed 16″ O.C. You’ll also need to cut out a 9′-5″ 2×4 for the double top plate. Drill pilot holes through the plates and insert the 3 1/2″ screws into the studs to secure in place. Align the frame edges and make sure all corners are flush for a professional result.

See detailed Door and Window framing instructions here:

Shed Double Door Plan
Shed Window Plan

The 2 x 4 studs holding up the door header need to be cut at 6′-3 1/2″.

To construct the door header, cut two 2×6 lumber to 6′-3″ length, and insert 1/2″ plywood as filler. Use wood glue and 3 1/2″ nails to secure all the pieces together.

Align the finished front wall frame with the front edge of the floor foundation:

Next up is the building the shed’s back wall. Cut two 2×4’s to 10′ length, and 11 more 2×4’s to 7′-4 1/2″ length. Then cut out a 9′-5″ 2×4 as the double top plate. Follow the framing plan below.

Space the wall studs to 16″ O.C., identical to the front wall. Drill pilot holes through the plate and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure the studs.

Continue the build by assembling the 2 side wall frames. Cut two 2×4’s lumber to 9′-5″ as top and bottom plate, then a full 10′ 2×4 as the double top plate. then cut ten 2×4’s to 7′-4 1/2″ for the wall studs. Follow the wall frame plan below and assemble 2 sets of side walls.

Now it’s time to secure all four wall frames together. First, line up the edges of the front and side wall frame with the floor frame perimeter. Make sure edges line up and there’s no gaps, use a spirit level if needed. Then, drill pilot holes through the bottom wall plate, and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure wall frame to the floor. After both wall frames are secured, lock the adjacent walls together by inserting 3 1/2″ screws or nails.

Repeat and assemble all 4 wall frames.

Step 3 – Roof & Truss

The roof will require a total of 6 identical kingpost style trusses, installed 24″ O.C. There are also two cross bracing placed on both ends for added stability. The trusses are designed to have an overhang of 10″ on both sides.

Refer to the truss details below for dimensions and assembly instructions.

Tip: make 1 truss first and make sure everything fits in place.

After you’ve finished assembling the trusses, place them 24″ O.C. on top of the wall frames. Then use 3 1/2″ nails to secure each rafter from the underside of the plate. Attach the two set of cross bracing at midpoint of the end truss bays.

The next step is to add purlins on top of the trusses. Measure and cut out 10 2×4 lumbers to approximately 11′-8″ in length. Center the purlins to leave about 10″ of overhang, secure to the trusses with 3 1/2″ nails.

After all the purlins are secured in place, measure and cut the 1/2″ plywood panels to size. These sheets usually come in standard 96″ x 48″ size, you’ll need about 160SF to cover the entire roof area. Insert 2 1/2″ nails into the purlins at about every 10″ to lock the plywood sheets in place.

Next up is installing the exterior shed sidings, it’s easier to do this first before adding in the roof trims.

Measure and cut 12 T1-11 plywood siding panels to size. These shed panels are designed to interlock, so plan them out accordingly. These siding panels also come in standard sizes of 96″ x 48″, you’ll need about 345SF to cover the entire shed.

For the front wall siding, measure and cut out the door and window openings before installing. The rough door opening is 72″ x 77″, and the optional window opening is 2′-11 1/4″ x 2′-11 3/8″.

Cover the entire roofing area with roof underlayment or tar paper, this is a water-resistant barrier material to keep the wood structures dry. A 10×10 size shed will require about 160SF to cover the entire roof area.

Finally, we need to lay out the roof shingles (160SF of 3-tab roof shingles). Start at the bottom of the roof, measure and mark every increment height all the way to top of the roof. Use glue or glue strip along the rake edge and drip edge. Then, insert 2 1/2″ nails to secure in place.

Tip: You can select the roof shingle material to match the roofing material of the main house, for a unified look! Get samples from your local hardware or home renovation store to get a close match.

Step 4 – Trims, Door, and Window

For the wall trims, measure and cut eight 1 x 4 lumbers to 7′-9 3/4″, trim the top angle as needed. Align and secure these trims with 2 1/2″ nails into the wall frames.

As for the door trim: use a 6′-7″ long 2×6 as the header trim, and two 6′-5″ long 2×4’s as frame trims. The window will require a 42 3/8″ 2×6 header, and 35 1/4″ side trims. Secure all trims to the studs with 2 1/2″ nails.

Add in the shed door and optional window. Refer to detailed Door and Window plans here on how to build these:

Shed Double Door Plan
Shed Window Plan

Step 5 – Paint

Go ahead and get creative with your new 10×10 garden shed, paint the masterpiece you’ve just created!

First, wipe off any dirt or dusts off the T1-11 siding surface and the trims. Prime the siding with a heavy acrylic primer, a single thorough coat will do the job. It’s best to use a small brush to fill in the grooves and corners first, and then use a larger roller to cover up the flat areas. Let it sit and dry. Then apply two coats of exterior grade acrylic paint, allow 2 hours between coats to completely dry.

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