Single Medium Dog Kennel w/ Drawers Plans & Instructions

Designed to comfortably house one medium sized dog (30- 50lbs), or multiple smaller puppies. Top is wide enough to hold a large TV and decors. This is a nice showpiece for the living room, and can be stained or painted to match rest of the furniture.

Get the complete Medium Dog Kennel DIY Plans – Instant PDF download 8.5″ x 11″
PDF includes the cut list, additional diagrams and dimensions, complete step-by-step DIY instructions.

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Material and Cut List

(A) 2 – 2×4 Lumber: 36 3/4″
(B) 2 – 2×4 Lumber: 18 1/2″
(B) 1 – 2×2 Lumber: 18 1/2″
(C) 2 – 1×3 Lumber: 33 1/4″
(D) 2 – 1×3 Lumber: 33 3/4″
(E) 1 – 1×3 Lumber: 38 1/4″
(F) 2 – 1×10 Lumber: 25 1/2″
(G) 4 – 1×3 Lumber: 24 1/2″
(H) 1 – 1×3 Lumber: 25 1/2″
(I) 1 – 3/4″ Plywood: 36 3/4″ x 25 1/2″
(J) 6 – 1×6 Lumber: 38 1/4″
(J) 1 – 1×4 Lumber: 38 1/4″
(K) 2 1×3 Lumber: 36 3/4″
(L) 3 1×3 Lumber: 20 1/2″
(M) 2 1×3 Lumber: 18″
(N) 2 1×2 Lumber: 19 1/2″
(O) 4 1×8 Lumber: 40 1/4″
(P) Drawer Materials: Refer to Step 7

11 – 3/8″ Diameter Rebar: 26 1/2″
3 – 3/8″ Diameter Rebar: 21 1/2″
Rust-Oleum Epoxy Metal Paint

HARDWARE
– (2) 3″ T-Hinge Hardware
– (2) 3″ Barrel Bolts
– 1 1/4″ Pocket Screws
– 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws
– 3/8″ Dowels

PROJECT TOOLS
– Tape Measure
– Pocket-hole Jig
– Cordless Drill
– Miter Saw / Circular Saw
– Screwdriver
– Sandpaper or Sand Block
– Refer to the woodworking tool guide for more information

Step 1 – Kennel Base

Cut the 2×4 lumbers per cut list dimensions. The bottom frame is made from two 36 3/4″ 2×4’s and two 18 1/2” 2×4’s, with 2×2 for center bracing. Arrange the 2×4’s per layout below. You can use wood glue to assemble each lumber first. Then, drill pocket-holes and use 2 1/2” size screws to secure in place.

All vertical panels will sit directly on top of the bottom frame, with 1” offset from the perimeter edges. Finish building all the panels first before screwing them into the bottom frame, to ensure all the panels fit in place properly. Drill pocket-holes in the 1×3 panels and use 1 1/4” screws to secure to the bottom 2×4 frame.

Step 2 – Front and Side Panels

Next, cut the 1×2 and 1×3 lumbers per cut list for the front facing panel. You will need two 33 3/4” 1×3’s, one 38 1/4” 1×3’s, one 24 1/2″ 1×3, two 33 1/2″ 1×2’s, and three 26 1/2” rebar. Drill dual pocket-holes on both ends of the 1×3’s. Only screw into the bottom lumber piece first. Then, drill 3/8” diameter holes (1” depth) into both the top and bottom lumber to fit the rebar.

Before installing the metal rebars in place, you will need to prepare and paint them to avoid rusting. The best type of pet-friendly paint for metal is the Rust-Oleum Specialty Epoxy Spray Paint, which is ideal for refinishing metal surfaces and provide a durable finish. Don’t worry, this process is simple! First, clean the metal rebars of any dirt or rust, then spray two coats of the epoxy paint directly onto the rebars. Allow 2-4 hours to complete dry before installing them on the kennel doors.

Insert the 3/8” rebars into the holes. Finally, add the top lumber piece and secure it in place with 1 1/4” pocket screws.

Next, cut 1×2 and 1×3 lumbers per cut list for the side panels. You will need two 33 3/4” 1×3’s, one 38 1/4” 1×3’s, one 24 1/2″ 1×3, two 33 1/2″ 1×2’s,  and three 26 1/2” rebars. Total of two side panels. Drill dual pocket-holes on both ends of the 1×3’s. Only screw into the bottom lumber first until you insert the rebar in place.

Step 2 – Flooring

The floor panel is made out of 3/4” plywood, cut to dimensions below. You can use 2” nails to secure the floor panel onto the bottom frame.

Step 4 – Top Bracing

The top support frame will add more structural integrity to the kennel. Cut 1×3’s per dimension below, drill pocked holes and secure with 1 1/4” nails. Position the frame in place, with top aligning with the drawer opening. See next page for section. You can also use 1 1/2” angle brackets to attach the support frame.

Step 5 – Back Panel

The back panel is made up of six 38 1/4” 1×6’s and a single 38 1/4” x 3 1/4” lumber. Drill pocket-holes per location indicated below, then glue and secure in place with 1 1/4” screws. You can also use other lumber sizes or 3/4” plywood sheet to build this 38 1/4” x 36 1/4” back panel.

Step 6 – Kennel Doors

Next, cut 1×3 lumbers per cut list for the door panels. You will need two 18” 1×3’s, two 19 1/2” 1×3’s, and three 19 1/2” rebars, per door. Similar to the previous panels, drill dual pocket-holes on both ends of the 19 1/2” 1×3’s. Only screw into the bottom lumber first.

3″ T-Hinge Hardware: https://amzn.to/3KjrpsJ
3″ Barrel Bolts: https://amzn.to/3TcPpBR

Step 7 – Kennel Drawers

Almost there! We will use 1×6’s, 1×8’s, and 1/4” plywood to build out the drawer. Leave 1/2” gap between the drawer box for drawer slides. Cut the drawer panels and use 1 1/4” pocket screws to secure together, attached 1/4” plywood to the bottom with nails.

Finally, cut four 40 1/4” 1×8’s for the table top piece. Drill pocket-holes as indicated in the layout below, then use 1 1/4” screws to secure in place. Pocket-hole side will face the bottom side. You can also construct the table top using other lumber sizes or plywood, as long as the overall dimensions are the same.

Need another kennel size? Check out my shop for more kennel design and sizes. The full PDF plans include the full materials list, cut list, complete dimensions, 2D/3D diagrams, step-by-step instructions, and helpful tips. Thank you for your support!

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A-frames are a type of architectural structure that is created using a triangular frame. The frame is used to support the building’s roof and walls, and is usually placed on top of a pier or flat concrete foundation. A-frames are popular in the construction of cabins, and the shape of the roof gives the cabin a more unique aesthetic. This tiny A-frame cabin makes a popular short term rental or a camp ground cabin.

The complete set of 40 pages of DIY plans include the materials list, wall and roof framing plans, foundation plan, exterior elevations, floor plans, 3D diagrams, window and door schedule, and step-by-step instructions. Plans are easy to read and understand, and suitable for most DIY skill levels. The estimated cost for the project is about $8,500, all materials can be found at Home Depot or your local hardware store.

Get the complete 12′ x 18′ Tiny A-Frame Cabin DIY plans

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Build Specs:
Interior Size: 12’W x 18’D
Ceiling Height: 13′-10″
Foundation: Concrete Blocks
Roof Snow Load: 85PSF
Capacity: Sleeps 2 Adults
Materials Cost: $8,500

The repetitive triangular A-frame structure makes this an easy and inexpensive cabin to build. The compact size and height is beneficial in bypassing requirement for pulling a building permit or from HOA in most regions. These plans are made for DIYers, you shouldn’t be intimidated if you can put together a small shed.

The interior of the tiny A-frame cabin is mostly open, with a sleeping loft above. You can utilize and decorate it to suit your lifestyle. This cabin is also a popular choice to backyard office or studio spaces.

These tiny A-frame cabin DIY plans include all details and dimensions, with clear and simple step-by-step instructions to put everything together.

The full set of DIY plan includes all the drawings and information you need to put this cabin together. Also, the step-by-step instructions are detailed to walk you through the entire build process, from start to finish.

The post Modern 12×18 Tiny A-Frame Cabin DIY Plans appeared first on Build Blueprint.

The 16×20 Redwood cabin is designed to withstand the harshest of weather conditions, suitable to be built in majority of the climate regions in North America or Europe. Exterior wall frames are constructed with 2×6 studs, with 24″ spacing to allow for heavy insulation materials. Interior of the cabin is spacious with two queen size beds (one up in the loft), a full kitchen, and a bathroom with stacked laundry. This cabin was designed to be cost-effective, using less materials and more off-the-shelf components like standard sized doors and windows.

The complete 42 pages of DIY plan include the materials list, wall and roof framing plans, foundation plan, exterior elevations, floor plans, 3D diagrams, window and door schedule, and step-by-step instructions. Plans are easy to read and understand, and suitable for most DIY skill levels. The estimated cost for the project is about $6,500, all materials can be found at Home Depot or your local hardware store.

Get the complete 16′ x 20′ Redwood Cabin DIY plans

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Build Specs:
Interior Size: 16’W x 20’D
Ceiling Height: 14′-0″
Foundation: Concrete Blocks
Roof Snow Load: 95PSF
Capacity: Sleeps 4 Adults
Materials Cost: $9,750

The foundation is 4×4 skids on concrete piers or blocks, the material list includes all quantity required for the entire structure and finishing materials. You can build this foundation type on most topography conditions, even if your site is not completely flattened. All studs, sidings, windows/doors, and roofing materials can be purchased off-the-shelf from hardware stores like Home Depot or Lowe’s.

The interior space is designed to comfortably house a small family or group, which is ideal to use for short term rentals like AirBnB. Common area is spacious with large windows to allow ample of natural light, also made larger with the 14′ high ceiling. The cabin is designed to be smaller in footprint, but intended to maximize every single square footage.

The loft above can be used for sleeping (fits queen size mattress) or extra storage space, depending on how many occupants you plan to have in here.

The full set of DIY plan includes all the drawings and information you need to put this cabin together. Also, the step-by-step instructions are detailed to walk you through the entire build process, from start to finish.

The post 16′ x 20′ Redwood Off-Grid Cabin DIY Plans appeared first on Build Blueprint.

Introduction

Likely one of the simplest, quickest, and most cost effective foundation types out there, skid foundations consist of pressure-treated dimensional lumber “skids”, (typically 4×4’s, 4×6’s, or 6×6’s) set on and anchored against a compacted gravel base. The building’s floor joists are then placed on top of and perpendicular to the skids, after which the flooring and the rest of the building can be installed/constructed. 

In this article, we will take you through this process, step by step. For the sake of time, let’s say that you’ve already planned out the dimensions, overall design, and location of your shed and that you’ve already cleared the area and marked out where your shed will go. If you haven’t done these things yet, this is your sign to do so now. 

Step One: Prepare Your Base

The overall concept of building a skid foundation is simple, but simplicity also tends to mean that in order to do it right, you must be especially focused on each and every element involved. Arguably the most important element in a shed foundation is the base material that you place your skids on. This step can quite literally make or break your project over time. 

Gravel is the best choice for your base. It drains water well, thus preventing your skids from rotting through or expanding and shifting or twisting your structure. Additionally, compacted gravel provides stability by preventing soil from washing out from underneath the foundation. 

Your gravel base should be at least 4 inches deep and it should be slightly larger in area than your planned shed area (an extra foot of two on every side of the future structure will do). You will need to dig out at least 4 inches of your existing ground cover material from this area, whether grass, dirt, or something else, and replace it with gravel. You will then want to compact the gravel using a tamper or power compactor. Make the gravel area as level as possible. 

If you are unable to do this, however, skids are also versatile in that they can be placed on a variety of bases, such as concrete blocks or dirt, and can be jacked up, if needed, when placed on uneven ground. Where possible, provide a stable base, but don’t let this single step stop you from building your shed. As long as you can provide stability, a level base, and good drainage, you can make a skid foundation work for you. 

Step Two: Place Your Skids

You might only have two skids or you might have more. This will depend on how large your shed is and what type of floor joists you’ll be using. When using 2 in x 6 in floor joists, an 8 ft x 12 ft shed should have two 12 ft skids spaced no more than 6 feet apart on center. Place the skids in the footprint of your future shed parallel to each other. 

Step Three: Level Your Skids

Level the skids lengthwise by adding or removing gravel underneath them while also ensuring that a plank placed perpendicular across the skids is also level widthwise. You can fine-tune this once your floor joists are laid atop the skid foundation. 

Step Four: Install You Floor Joists

This step can sometimes interfere with the leveling of your skids, and sometimes it can really help fine-tune crooked or uneven skids because you can leverage your floor joists in such a way that can elevate the skids in certain areas and push the skids down in other areas. Make sure to check your level throughout your floor joist installation and adjust as needed.

Step Five: Anchor Your Skid Foundation

Both a possible upside and downside of using a skid foundation is that it means your shed is somewhat mobile. You can hook a rope to your skids and drag your shed to another location, or your shed can shift, move, or even turn over without your consent during times of heavy rain and wind. The latter scenario is why anchoring your skids is important. You can purchase anchoring kits for sheds or you can use long stretches of rebar and drive it through a drilled hole in your skid and then into the ground.  

And that’s it! You’re now ready for flooring and walls – we told ya skid foundations were simple and easy, and we certainly meant it.

Ready to get started? Check out our FREE shed plans built with skid foundations.

The post How to Build a Shed Foundation on Skids appeared first on Build Blueprint.

This is a DIY tiny cabin that you can build on your own, using all off-the-shelf materials from general hardware stores. If you can build a shed, you can build this! The 12×20 Saltbox cabin is the perfect off-grid cabin for full time living or weekend getaways. The interior was designed to comfortably house two adults (and a couple of fur friends), providing a full bathroom and stacked laundry. With the unique asymmetric roofline, this tiny cabin offers high interior ceilings and a large sleeping loft.

The complete 44 pages of DIY plan include the materials list, wall and roof framing plans, foundation plan, exterior elevations, floor plans, 3D diagrams, window and door schedule, and step-by-step instructions. The estimated cost for the project is about $6,500, all materials can be found at Home Depot or your local hardware store.

Get the complete 12′ x 20′ Saltbox Cabin DIY plans

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Build Specs:
Interior Size: 12’W x 20’D
Ceiling Height: 15′-1″
Foundation: Concrete Blocks
Roof Snow Load: 95PSF
Capacity: Sleeps 2 Adults
Materials Cost: $6,500

Naturally, with a smaller footprint, we put a lot of thoughts and creativity was put into the cabin’s interior layout to maximize the space. The living room and kitchen combo fully utilizes the 13 foot ceiling height and large windows located towards front of the cabin. Also, the space below the loft can be doubled for a small dining space or a work desk, depending on your lifestyle.

These DIY cabin plans show all dimensions for the foundation, floor boards, wall and roof framing, interior walls, exterior siding, and windows/doors. You can follow these plans step-by-step throughout the build process, starting from procuring all the materials and cutting each to size. Last section of the cabin plan also shows the overall plumbing and electrical layout. These plans will ensure you complete the cabin build from start to finish.

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The post 12′ x 20′ Saltbox Tiny Cabin DIY Plans appeared first on Build Blueprint.

Building tiny cabins cost fractions of the price compared to traditional houses, requiring less materials and maintenance cost. Because of this, they’re the perfect cabin if you’re looking to build a weekend getaway home or an Airbnb rental. The materials cost for these 3 tiny cabin plans are all below $10,000 (est. 2022), including the wooden structure, insulation, doors, windows, exterior and interior finishes.

Another advantage of tiny cabins is that you can build them yourself (given you are somewhat handy), which can save you a hefty amount of labor cost. These DIY tiny cabins below are more similar to large sheds in size and construction, and all the materials can be procured from your local hardware store. You will need the standard woodworking tools to complete the build, and ideally another person to help out. The 3 DIY tiny cabin plans below are designed for beginners, with step-by-step instructions and diagrams. These plans are also designed to be cost-effective and minimize materials.

1. 12′ x 20′ Saltbox Tiny Cabin DIY Plans

The 12×20 Saltbox cabin is the perfect off-grid cabin for your spontaneous weekend getaways. The “saltbox” name comes from its asymmetrical roofline, which provides a unique interior spatial quality and additional height to the sleeping loft. This tiny cabin is designed to comfortably sleep 2 adults, the dining room can be used as an office space as well. Foundation uses concrete blocks or piers, suitable to be built on sloped or flat sites.

Buy Complete PDF Plan

Build Specs:
Interior Size: 12’W x 20’D
Ceiling Height: 15′-1″
Foundation: Concrete Blocks
Roof Snow Load: 95PSF
Capacity: Sleeps 2 Adults
Materials Cost: $7,500

More details about the 12×20 Saltbox cabin DIY plan

2. 12′ x 18′ Modern Tiny A-Frame DIY Plans

A-frame cabins are currently the most popular cabin plans on the market, as they require less building materials and labor due to their natural triangular geometry. This 12×18 modern tiny A-frame cabin is a flexible build that can be placed on any small footprint of land, and can be used as a backyard office or campground rental. The tiny A-frame cabin is designed for both hot and cold climates, allowing for thick insulation between the 2×6 rafters.

Buy Complete PDF Plan

Build Specs:
Interior Size: 12’W x 18’D
Ceiling Height: 13′-10″
Foundation: Concrete Blocks
Roof Snow Load: 85PSF
Capacity: Sleeps 2 Adults
Materials Cost: $8,500

3. 16′ x 20′ Redwood Cabin DIY Plans

The 16×20 Redwood cabin is designed for extreme weathers, both hot and cold climates. The 2×6 exterior wall framing allows for thicker insulation and wind resistance, which help the cabin to withstand harsh winters and snowfall. This is the largest cabin out of the three, and can sleep up to 4 adults. The loft is large enough for sleeping and extra storage as needed.

Buy Complete PDF Plan

Build Specs:
Interior Size: 16’W x 20’D
Ceiling Height: 14′-0″
Foundation: Concrete Blocks
Roof Snow Load: 95PSF
Capacity: Sleeps 4 Adults
Materials Cost: $9,750

The post 3 Easy DIY Tiny Cabins You Can Build Yourself appeared first on Build Blueprint.

Hexagon Wedding Arbor DIY Plans

The hexagon wooden arbor is an elegant and beautiful centerpiece to any wedding, and the perfect backdrop for your wedding photos! The boho style hexagon arbor has gained popularity recently as the amount of backyard wedding ceremonies increased. The best part is this DIY arbor is very easy and can be completed within just a few hours, even for a beginner DIYer.

Looking for a different style? Check out our 5 easy DIY wedding arbor plans HERE

Get the complete Hexagon Wedding Arbor Plans – Instant PDF download 8.5″ x 11″
PDF includes the cut list, additional diagrams and dimensions, complete step-by-step DIY instructions.

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Material and Cut List

(A) 6 – 2×4 Lumber: 49 1/2″
(B) 4 – 2×4 Lumber: 51 1/2″
(C) 1 – 2×4 Lumber: 45 1/2″
(D) 2 – 2×6 Lumber ripped to 4″: 48″
(E) 4 – 2×3 Lumber: 25″

HARDWARE
– 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws
– 3 1/2″ Screws or nails
– 3/8″ Dowels

PROJECT TOOLS
– Tape Measure
– Pocket-hole Jig
– Cordless Drill
– Miter Saw / Circular Saw
– Screwdriver
– Sandpaper or Sand Block
– Refer to the woodworking tool guide for more information

Hexagon Wedding Arbor DIY Plans

Step 1 – Front Hexagon Frames

First, we will start to construction the overall hexagon shaped framing. Both front and back frames are made entirely from 2×4’s. Prepare and cut the 2×4’s per diagram below, the joint angle between each piece here is 60°, so set your miter saw angle to 30° cut. Next, proceed to assemble the front frame first. For joints, you can use either pocket holes (2 1/2” screws) or metal tie plates.

Optional: use 3/8″ dowels to cover up the pocket screw holes to get a cleaner look.

Step 2 – Back Hexagon Frames

The back frame is exactly the same as the front, with the exception of the 2×4 bottom bracing. Repeat step 1 and assemble the overall hexagon shape frame, then add on the bottom 2×4 bracing piece.

Step 3 – Horizontal Bracing

The 2×3 horizontal bracings attaching the front and back frame are 25” in length. If you’d like to adjust the overall width of the arbor, you can increase/decrease the bracing length accordingly. Use either 3 1/2″ screws or nails to secure these to the front and back hexagon frames.

Step 4 – Arbor Base

The base is made from 2×6’s ripped down to 4”. To attach to the frames, drill pilot holes from the bottom and secure using 3 1/2” screws.

Step 5 – Stain or Paint

Before staining completed hexagon arbor, sand down the wood surface until it is a fine texture. The best type of stain for this is oil-based stains. Oil-based stains will penetrate deeper and give it a finer finish, and are more weather resistant for outdoor use. The hexagon wedding arbor is now complete and ready for your big day! You can also decorate it with flowers or leaves for a complete boho style look!

Not convinced this style fits your wedding? Check out our 5 easy DIY wedding arbor plans HERE

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Backyard Kid’s Mud Kitchen DIY Plans

Mud kitchens are incredible backyard toys that can keep kids entertained and engaged for hours. It can help to develop your kid’s creativity and imagination, foster outdoors and nature, all while provide a good exercise. In this DIY plan, you will learn to build a standard kid sized mud kitchen using common wood materials from your local hardware store. The cost of construction materials for this project is about $200, including all wood materials and hardware.

This mud kitchen is an essential backyard toy for kids ages 3 and up. You’ll want to find a suitable bucket for the sink first, so you know what dimensions to cut the sink hole on the table top. You can modify the length of height easily from the plans to suit your requirements.

Get the complete Mud Kitchen DIY plans – Instant PDF download 8.5″ x 11″
PDF includes the cut list, additional diagrams and dimensions, complete step-by-step DIY instructions.

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Material and Cut List

(A) 2 – 2×2 Lumber: 19 1/4″
(B) 2 – 2×2 Lumber: 40″
(C) 3 – 2×2 Lumber: 32 1/2″
(D) 2 – 2×2 Lumber: 15″
(E) 8 – 1×6 Lumber: 35 1/2″
(F) 5 – 1×6 Lumber: 43 1/4″
(F) 1 – 1×4 Lumber: 32 1/2″
(G) 2 – 1×4 Lumber: 15″
(H) 3 – 1×4 Lumber: 32 1/2″
(I) 2 – 1×2 Lumber: 7 3/4″
(J) 2 – 1×2 Lumber: 15 3/4″

HARDWARE
– 1 1/4″ Pocket Screws
– 1 1/4″ and 2″ Nails
– Wood Glue

PROJECT TOOLS
– Tape Measure
– Pocket-hole Jig
– Cordless Drill
– Miter Saw / Circular Saw
– Screwdriver
– Sandpaper or Sand Block
– Refer to the woodworking tool guide for more information

Step 1 – Legs

First, we will start with the overall framing of the mud kitchen. Cut the 2×2’s and 1x’4 per cut list, we will make two identical (mirrored) legs as illustrated below.

Use either dual pocket holes or toenailing method to secure all the joints.

Step 2 – Overall Framing

After you’ve completed both leg frames, cut the 2×2 and 1×4 horizontal supports to 32 1/2” per cut list. Then, secure these pieces to the 2×2 legs per illustration below. Use either pocket holes or toenailing method to secure, you’ll want to make sure no nail heads are sticking out.

Step 3 – Table Top

Check to make sure the overall frame is secure and stable, then we will work on the table top and bottom shelf. Cut six 1×6’s to 35 1/2”. Next, cut two 1×2’s to 15 3/4” length, these will be used as the support for the sink opening. Place them flush with the sink hole, directly below.

You can drill finishing nails to secure these to the frame. To joint the 1×6’s together to make the table top, use pocket holes and 1 1/4” screw.

Step 4 – Shelves

The top shelf is made out of two 35 1/2” 1×6’s. First, attach the top 1×6 panel, which is aligned with the top of the 2×2 leg, use 1 1/4” nails to secure. Then place the 1×6 horizontal shelf piece directly below, you can secure this to the top panel using 1 1/4” nails.

Cut two 1×2’s to 7 3/4”, refer to cut pattern below. These will be used as shelf supports. Attach to the leg and bottom side of the shelf, you can use wood glue to secure these pieces.

Step 5 – Stove Top

You’re almost done with the build! Next, use a hole saw to cut out four 2” radius circular pieces for the stove top burners, and four 1/2” radius pieces as dial knobs.

To finish off, paint these black using wood paint, then place them on top of the table top using wood glue.

Sand the overall build using a sand block, especially any sharp corners or rough surfaces. You can paint using an exterior grade wood paint, this is optional. Finally, place in your sink (bucket), optional to glue it to the table top. You can also install hook hardware to the backboard to hang pans.

The post Kid’s Backyard Mud Kitchen DIY Plans appeared first on Build Blueprint.

Tall Double Dog Kennel TV Stand DIY Plans

Designed to comfortably house two large sized dogs (30” headroom), while keeping them separated. Each bay fits a standard large dog bed. This is the perfect showpiece for the living room, and can be stained or painted to match rest of the furniture. You can choose to add 2 or 4 drawers to this design. This build requires basic woodworking tools including pocket-hole jig, miter saw, screw driver, and wood glue.

Get the complete Tall Double Kennel TV Stand plan – Instant PDF download 8.5″ x 11″

PDF includes the cut list, additional diagrams and dimensions, complete step-by-step DIY instructions.

Buy Complete PDF Plan

Material and Cut List

(1) 2×4 – 10′-0″
(2) 2×4 – 8′-0″
(7) 1×3 – 10′-0″
(7) 1×6 – 10′-0″
(1) 1×6 – 8′-0″
(4) 1×8 – 8′-0″
(2) 1×2 – 10′-0″
(2) 1×2 – 8′-0″
(4) 3/4″ Plywood – 41 1/8″ x 25 1/2″
(28) 3/8″ Diameter Rebar – 30″
(6) 3/8″ Diameter Rebar – 25″
Rust-Oleum Epoxy Metal Paint

HARDWARE
– (4) 3″ T-Hinge Hardware
– (4) 3″ Barrel Bolts
– (4) 5″ Bar Drawer Handles
– 1 1/4″ Pocket Screws
– 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws
– 3/8″ Dowels

PROJECT TOOLS
– Tape Measure
– Pocket-hole Jig
– Cordless Drill
– Miter Saw / Circular Saw
– Screwdriver
– Sandpaper or Sand Block
– Refer to the woodworking tool guide for more information

Step 1

First, cut the 2×4 lumbers per cut list dimensions. The bottom frame is made from two 86 1/2” 2×4’s and five 22” 2×4’s. Arrange the 2×4’s per layout below. You can use wood glue to assemble each lumber first. Then, drill pocket-holes and use 2 1/2” size screws to secure in place.

Step 2

Next, cut 1×3 lumbers per cut list for the front facing panel. You will need two 84 1/2” 1×3’s, five 28” 1×3’s, and ten 30” rebar. Drill dual pocket-holes on both ends of the 28” 1×3’s. Only screw into the bottom lumber first. Then, drill 3/8” diameter holes (1” depth) into both the top and bottom lumber to fit the rebar.

Before installing the metal rebars in place, you will need to prepare and paint them to avoid rusting. The best type of pet-friendly paint for metal is the Rust-Oleum Specialty Epoxy Spray Paint, which is ideal for refinishing metal surfaces and provide a durable finish. Don’t worry, this process is simple! You can first clean the metal rebars of any dirt or rust, then spray two coats of the epoxy paint directly onto the rebars. Allow 2-4 hours to complete dry before installing them on the kennel doors.

Build the side and center divider panels with the same process. Then, secure the vertical face panels to the base using 3/8″ dual pocket screws.

Step 3

Floor panels and top shelf panels will be identical, so you can make 2 set of this. Cut the 3/4” plywood per dimensions below. Place directly on top of the bottom frame, use 2 1/2” screws to secure into the bottom frame.

Step 4

Next, cut the 1×3 lumbers per cut list for the door panels. You will need two 18” 1×3’s, two 23” 1×3’s, and three 25” rebar, per door. Two sets of doors total. Similar to the previous panels, drill dual pocket-holes on both ends of the 1×3’s. Only screw into the bottom lumber first. Rebar spacing is 3 1/4” O.C. adjust per your dog’s size. Complete cut and dimensions available in the PDF plan version. 

Step 5

The back panel is made up of seven 84 1/2” 1×6’s. Drill pocket-holes per location indicated, then glue and secure in place with 1 1/4” screws. You can also use other lumber sizes or 3/4” plywood to build this 84 1/2” x 38 1/2” back panel.

Step 6

Measure the cut ten 1×6’s to 25 1/2” and five 1×3’s to 4”. Refer to the dimensions below for the exact placements. This will create four identical 18” drawer bays. Drill 3/8” pocked holes and secure with wood screws. Fill with 3/8” dowel where visible.

Step 7

Next, we will use 1×6’s, 3/4” and 1/4” plywood to build out the drawer. Leave 1/2” gap between the drawer box for drawer slides. Cut the drawer panels and use 1 1/4” pocket screws to secure together, attached 1/4” plywood to the bottom with nails.

Complete drawer build instructions available in the PDF plan version.

Step 8

Next, cut four 1×8’s (you can use 2×8’s if you want a thicker table top) to 86 1/2” length for the table top. Drill pocket-holes as indicated in the layout below, then use 1 1/4” screws to secure in place. Pocket-hole side will face the bottom side. You can also construct the table top using other lumber sizes or plywood, as long as the overall dimensions are the same.

Step 9

Before staining or painting your completed kennel, sand down the wood surface until it is a fine texture. The best type of stain for furniture is oil-based stains. Oil-based stains will penetrate deeper and give it a finer finish, but takes longer time to dry. To paint your kennel, use either a satin or semi-gloss finish in either a latex or an oil based paint. Prime the surface first and let dry, then apply coats of the paint of your choice.

Attach the doors with 3″ T-Hinge Hardware on top and bottom hinge location. Then, install 3″ Barrel Bolts to complete the doors. I found both of these hardware that fits the dimensions on Amazon, links below for reference:

3″ T-Hinge Hardware: https://amzn.to/3KjrpsJ
3″ Barrel Bolts: https://amzn.to/3TcPpBR

Finally, add 5″ black metal bar drawer handles, on center with each drawer face.

5″ Bar Drawer Handles (5 pack): https://amzn.to/3A53OHd

Need another kennel size? Check out my shop for more kennel design and sizes. The full PDF plans include the full materials list, cut list, complete dimensions, 2D/3D diagrams, step-by-step instructions, and helpful tips. Thank you for your support!

The post Tall Double Dog Kennel TV Stand DIY Plans appeared first on Build Blueprint.

Get the complete 12×16 Shed Plans – PDF Instant Download:

PDF includes the cut list, additional diagrams and dimensions, complete step-by-step DIY instructions.

Buy Complete PDF Plan

12×16 Shed DIY Plans | Free Woodworking Guide

Material and Cut List

FLOOR
10 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber: 15′-9″
2 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber: 12′-0″
5 – 4×4 Pressure Treated Lumber: 12′-0″
6 – 23/32″ Tongue and Groove Plywood 4′ x 8′ Sheet (cut to size)

WALLS
51 – 2×4 Lumber: 7′-5 3/4″
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 11′-5 ”
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 12′
2 – 2×4 Lumber: 16′
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 15′-5″

SIDINGS
16 – 4′ x 8′ Plywood Siding Panel T1-11 (496SF)

TRUSS
20 – 2×4 Lumber: 8′-0″
10 – 2×4 Lumber: 12′
10 – 2×4 Lumber: 3′-2 1/2″
4 – 2×4 Lumber: 2′-8 7/8″
40 – Tie Plates: 7″ or various
Metal Gusset (reference detail for sizing)

PURLIN & ROOF
12 – 2×4 Lumber: 17′-8″
10 – 4′ x 8′ 3/4″ Plywood Sheet (295SF)
Roof Underlayment (295SF)
3-Tab Roof Shingles (295SF)

TRIM
8 – 1×4 Lumber: 7′-11″

HARDWARE
3 1/2″ Galvanized Steel Nails
2″ Deck Screws
2″ Galvanized Finishing Nails
1 1/2″ Drilling Roofing Screws

*Full materials list included in PDF version

Step 1 – Foundation and Floor

Start with selecting a proper site for the shed foundation, ideally a flat solid surface away from any large trees.

The first step is cut ten 2×6 lumbers to 15’-9” length, and two 2×6 lumbers to 12’-0. Next, place the five 10’ 4×4 lumbers parallel to each other at 48” apart. Then, assemble the 2×6 perimeter frames on top, this will outline the overall floor frame. Drill pilot holes through the joists and secure with 3 ½” screws. Finally, install the eight 2×6 floor joists at 16” O.C. to complete the foundation.

After the floor frame is secured, cut the tongue and groove 23/32″ plywood to size and attach to the frame. You’ll need 6 full sheets to cover the 192SF floor area. These sheets usually come in standard sizes of 48” x 96”. Insert 2” deck screws every 8” along the joint, don’t leave any gaps between the sheets. Refer to the cut pattern below:

Step 2 – Walls

Start with the front wall frame first, all frames used here are 2 x 4’s (except the door and window header which are 2 x 6’s).

Cut two 2 x 4’s to 12’-0” in length, these will be used for the top and bottom plates. Then, cut eight 2 x 4’s to 7’-5 3/4” for wall studs, these will be placed per spacing
illustrated below. You’ll also need to cut out a 11’-5” 2 x 4 for the double top plate. Drill pilot holes through the plates and insert the 3 ½” screws into the studs to secure in place. Align the frame edges and make sure all corners are flush for a professional result.

See detailed Door and Window framing instructions here:

Shed Double Door Plan

Shed Single Door Plan

Shed Window Plan

The 2×4 studs holding up the door header need to be cut at 6′-3 1/2″.

Next up is the building up the shed’s back wall. Cut two 2 x 4’s to 12’ length, and 12 more 2 x 4’s to 7’-5 3/4” length. Then cut out a 11’-5” 2 x 4 as the double top plate. Follow the framing plan below.

Space the wall studs to 16” O.C. matching the width of the front wall frame. Drill pilot holes through the plate and insert 3 ½” screws to secure the studs.

Continue the build by assembling the 2 side wall frames. Cut two 2 x 4’s lumber to 15’-5” as top and bottom plate, then a full 16’ 2 x 4 as the double top plate. then cut 12 2 x 4’s to 7’-5 3/4” for the wall studs. The single door studs are 6’-3 ½” in length.

See door and window detail for detailed build dimensions.

Step 3 – Roof & Truss

The roof will require a total of 10 identical gable kingpost style trusses, installed 20” O.C. There are also two cross bracing placed on both ends for added stability. The trusses are designed to have an overhang of 10” on both sides. Refer to the truss detail page for dimensions and assembly instructions.

Tip: make 1 truss first and make sure everything fits in place.

Refer to the full gable truss dimensions and assembly below, use wooden gussets to joint all the truss members together. Construct a single truss first, in order to test out the overall fit.

The next step is to add purlins on top of the trusses. Measure and cut out 12 2 x 4’s to approximately 17’-8” in length. Center the purlins to leave about 10” of overhang, secure to the trusses with 3 ½” nails.

After all the purlins are secured in place, measure and cut the 3/4” plywood panels to size. These sheets usually come in standard 96” x 48” size, you’ll need about 295SF to cover the entire roof area. Insert 2 ½” nails into the purlins at about every 10” to lock the plywood sheets in place.

Next up is installing the exterior shed sidings, it’s easier to do this first before adding in the roof trims. Full exterior panel cut and assembly plans available in the full PDF version.

Measure and cut 16 T1-11 plywood siding panels to size. These shed panels are designed to interlock, so plan them out accordingly. These siding panels also come in
standard sizes of 96” x 48”, you’ll need about 496SF to cover the entire shed.

For the front wall siding, measure and cut out the door and window openings before installing. The rough double door opening is 72” x 77”, rough opening for single door is 36” x 77”, and the optional window opening is 2’-11 ¼” x 2’-11 ⅜”.

Cover the entire roofing area with roof underlayment or tar paper, this is a water￾resistant barrier material to keep the wood structures dry. You’ll need about 296SF to cover the roof.

You can also add a ridge cap on top of the gable roof, this strengthens the ridge of the roof and prevents potential leakage.

Finally, we need to lay out the roof shingles (295SF of 3-tab roof shingles). Start at the bottom of the roof, measure and mark every increment height all the way to top of the roof. Use glue or glue strip along the rake edge and drip edge. Then, insert 2 ½” nails to secure in place.

Tip: You can select the roof shingle material to match the roofing material of the main house, for a unified look! Get samples from your local hardware or home renovation store to get a close match.

Step 4 – Trims, Door, and Window

For the wall trims, measure and cut eight 1 x 4 lumbers to 7’-11”, trim the top angle as needed. Align and secure these trims with 2 ½” nails into the wall frames.

As for the double door trim: use a 6’-7” long 2 x 6 as the header trim, and two 6’-5” long 2 x 4’s as frame trims. The single door trim will need two 6’-5” 2×4’s and a single 3;-7” 2×6 header trim. The window will require a 42 ⅜” 2 x 6 header, and 35 ¼” side trims. Secure all trims to the studs with 2 ½” nails.

Add in the shed door and optional window. Refer to double door and window plans for build details.

Step 5 – Paint

You’ve completed your very own 12×16 Garden Shed! Now it’s time to paint the masterpiece.

First, wipe off any dirt or dust off the T1-11 siding surface. Prime the siding with a heavy acrylic primer, a single thorough coat will do the job. It’s best to use a small
brush to fill in the grooves and corners first, and then use a larger roller to cover up the flat areas. Let it sit and dry. Then apply two coats of exterior grade acrylic paint, allow enough time between coats to completely dry.

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